TomasF | 2019-03-29 14:13:36 UTC | #1 Nate Weatherly posted a pretty thorough reply to a post on Facebook with generic recommendations for light sources that would work better than LED plates such as tracing panels etc. I know @Richard1Karash has done a pretty detailed comparison of different light sources as well. Perhaps it would be a good idea to make a separate thread with information about specific products that are known to work well for various setups (vertical "copystand" type setups, horizontal rails and bellows type setups, etc)? I know it would be really helpful to me - I'm currently using a huion tracing tablet and seeing colour casts similar to examples in recent FB posts.I'm sure there are other artificial light noobs out there that would find this useful as well :slight_smile: Edit: Wrong Nate referenced ------------------------- nate | 2021-01-27 20:56:55 UTC | #2 Just to generalize, the following seem to be **the most important factors when picking a light source for scanning film with your digital camera:** (BTW, these factors are true whether you are using [Negative Lab Pro](https://www.negativelabpro.com) to convert your negative film scans, or something else!) --- ## 1. You want a High CRI (Color Rendering Index) The **Color Rendering Index** (CRI) is a scale from 0 to 100 percent indicating how accurate a "given" light source is at **rendering color** when compared to a "reference" light source. The higher the CRI, the better the color rendering ability When digitizing negative film with a digital camera, having a high CRI light source is VERY important. The the differences in colors within the orange mask are incredibly small, so if your light source is not able to pick them up, there isn't really anything you can do in post to correct for it. Here's a good video showing some examples of the effect of having a high CRI on color reproduction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tISsunRpf0 **If the light source you are looking at for scanning film negatives doesn't have a CRI listed, I would consider this a BIG RED FLAG.** --- ## 2. Good separation of color channels in Spectral Sensitivity Curves This is a subject that Nate Weatherly has looked into more than I have, but makes a lot of sense. The paper that was traditional used in darkroom prints of color negative film had narrow bands of receptivity to red, green and blue, that were clearly separated. This is particularly true of the red channel, where modern digital cameras sensors are sensitive across a broader spectrum of red wavelengths (including yellow/orangish light). ![spectral-sensitivity-curves|635x500,75%](upload://3Baurd8Y8zDs9x8hADcJ5TUCOo4.jpeg) *(graph credit to Nate Weatherly)* **Basically, all this means that modern digital camera sensors will pick up more interference with the orange mask than photo paper would.** The ideal solution to this is to have a light source that produces distinct, narrow bands of red, green and blue light, that are in a similar range to photo paper spectral sensitivity. I haven't seen too much written about this outside the private Negative Lab Pro users facebook group, but examples of seen are extremely compelling. --- ## 3. You want Even Illumination and Predictable Results This is a bit tougher to quantize. Also, there are things you can do in your set up to help with this. **Using a Kaiser Slimlite Plano, I've never had any issues with even illumination, and the results are the same every time.** In my experience, it is very difficult to get *perfectly* even illumination if you are not using a professional LED light table solution (for example, a home-built led table, flash setup, old tungsten light table, etc) Even pre-built setups can have some issues... Here's a look at a Portra-Trace LED light table that was giving a users poor results. To the naked eye, it appeared to be even lighting, but by taking a photo the led table directly (and then added contrast to approximate the contrast during a negative conversion process), you can see it is terribly uneven! ![_MG_1098|638x500,75%](upload://9lYfu8O4q0dWtM0qXdw9jm0P2uC.jpeg) This is one of the biggest issues I see with the files that users of Negative Lab Pro send to me... **If you convert your negative notice "orange blobs", particularly around the borders of your film, it is probably a light source issue** Having the predictability is why I prefer using a LED light table instead of some of the other options (like flash) where I would expect a higher level of variance between setups - but I'm sure with the right steps, you can make a non-LED light table solution work quite well. --- ## 4. Also consider how "collimated" or diffused the light source is in your setup Collimated light is when the beams of light are being emitted parallel to each other. The opposite of collimated light is diffused light, where the beams are scattered and non-parallel. ![collimated-vs-diffused-light-rays|690x339](upload://30Nqazg39rjhv35l5yVxDZPWMQ4.png) Collimated light has two effects when DSLR scanning a film negative: 1. Collimated light produces sharper looking scans (whereas diffuse light will produce softer scans) 2. Collimated light produces more contrast in scans **Which is better?** Well, it's really a matter of opinion and the debate has been going on for a while (in a darkroom setting, you can choose between [using a condenser head (for collimated light) or a diffusion head](http://www.jollinger.com/photo/enlargers/guide-to-enlargers.htm#Condenser).) But I would say this: * If you like the sharpness and detail you see in drum scanners or dedicated film scanner (like Nikon Coolscans), try to get a more collimated light source. * If you prefer the "softness" of a traditional fine-art print, go for a more diffused light source --- ## So, which light source should I get? I'll let members of the community jump in, but here are my personal observations based on my own experiments and files users have sent me: --- **:white_check_mark: Recommended LED Panels:** * [Skier Sunray Copy Box II](http://www.skier.com.tw/web/shop/shop.jsp?sub_id=DM1597972775368) - 97 CRI light that is bright and even, and includes film holders for a variety of sizes that keep film flat and elevated off the surface. * [Negative Supply - Basic Light and Light Source Pro](https://www.negative.supply/light) (95 and 99 CRI) * Kaiser Slimlite Plano (CRI = 95, very even) * iPhone or iPad, especially newer models with OLED (must elevate film off surface!). While the reported CRI is not high, it has spectral sensitivity curves more similar to film paper, resulting in less color interference from the orange mask. It is also a more "collimated" source of light, meaning it will produce sharper results than diffuse light sources. * Any modern Samsung Galaxy/Galaxy Note s7, s8, s9, pixel 3, etc * Walimex Pro LED (CRI = 90) --- :no_entry_sign: **NOT Recommended LED Panels:** * Huion tracing tablet (unlisted CRI) * Artograph light pads (unlisted CRI, although reportedly ~80 CRI) * Porta-Trace (observed unevenness) :sunny: **Other options worth exploring (not LED panel)** - Flash with a UV filter - Solux 4700k Daylight Halogen bulb - GE Reveal or Chromalux tungsten light bulb with a CTB gel or an 80a filter. - Strobe ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-03-29 18:07:11 UTC | #3 My take. See animated gif below comparing several sources, all NLP conversions full auto. While many can be tuned in with the NLP sliders, here's what I see on autopilot: - iPhone 7 (or 8 or X, but not earlier models) is surprisingly the winner - Kaiser panel - Any good high CRI bulb. Several manufacturers are now making "Photo" quality bulbs, passing standards higher than CRI. Try SORAA "Vivid Light" for example. Avoid $30 tracing panels. The $100 LED panels are probably good. Here's my comparison, draw your own conclusions. ![TestBox-Fuji200-A7-PB4-5WayCompare|690x460](upload://yBA8taLypy0T5MVOketVLHZiIXC.gif) ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-03-29 18:09:09 UTC | #4 Avoid the TikTeck $29 panel on Amazon. I suggest everyone experiment, one good frame of a color checker in direct sunlight, then see what NLP does with your light source. Wishing you all good shooting! ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-04-03 15:56:37 UTC | #5 New recommendation: If you can use an MR16 bulb, SORAA “Vivid Light” MR16 bulbs seem excellent, comes in 3K and 4K, but these two may not be that different. With my usual testbox, SORAA bulb, and NLP 1.31, I think I have the best auto conversion yet. Previous winner for illumination was the iPhone 7 (8 and X have same screen). Here's a comparison, both with NLP 1.31, Frontier, Film=Fuji, and then Brightness to -6. Otherwise Auto. Both are slightly warm (not corrected). ![190402-TestBox-SORAA4k-vs-iPhone7-NLP1-31|690x435](upload://pqeAQPS2h9X9y919T8rV8NtmF8o.jpeg) ------------------------- PM01 | 2019-04-29 05:43:19 UTC | #6 The iphone 7 is a POOR light source with regards to CRI, R9 (deep red) and overall color rendering when measured with the i1Pro2 and Babelcolor CT&A program. CRI of 73, deep red rendering R9 of MINUS 19. ![iphone7_2019-04-28_Full-report_600DPI|388x500](upload://cveMxcKKd7S9whsfRLJHzw5AW2X.png) ------------------------- PM01 | 2019-04-29 05:49:11 UTC | #7 With regards to a constant "hot light", the Solux 4700K is THE reference source to beat. Easily surpasses the SORAA LED in all regards. Take a look at the spectral distribution in the upper left panel, a D50 match. There aren't any "hot blue" ramps like those found in the Profoto, Alien Bee or other flash units, nor are there any "blue pump" peaks like those found in 99% of the LEDs on the market. Glance over the right hand panels and you'll find very little deviation from ideal. The bottom chart is a sampling of 99 different colors and their accuracy. Previous chart of the iphone 7 was quite ragged. Look at the Solux 4700K - darn near perfect. I'm using the MR16 4700K in my setup. Be advised however that the larger PAR38 Solux does NOT have the same performance and the CRI drops down to low 90s, R9 deep red goes down to mid 50s with the larger sources. Reason? In the large PAR38 / PAR series, only the bulb is coated with the patented vapor deposited film. The MR16 utilizes the ENTIRE interior reflector with the coating. ![solux4700k_2019-04-28_Full-report_600DPI|388x500](upload://zxD5iwwfnZchkpcHQ39hZeOBy4F.png) ------------------------- PM01 | 2019-04-29 06:02:57 UTC | #8 The Soraa Vivid series in PAR30L configuration. This is after a 3 minute warmup. Note that this is considered one of the BEST LEDs out there on the market, even better than the Kaiser LED panel. Still, check out the bottom 99 samples and the overall spectral graph. Not even close to the Solux 4700K, but when compared to other LEDs, Soraa is one of the best as of this writing. My money though is on the new Nichia Optisolus series. ![SoraaVivid_2019-04-29_Full-report_600DPI|388x500](upload://7EwsCCMPIBRap94pEqvuKa2kuEr.png) ------------------------- nate | 2019-04-29 14:57:14 UTC | #9 @PM01 - thanks for this awesome info. Would love to see your setup (and maybe a few scan examples) over on the scanning setup thread: https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dlsr-film-scanning-setup/27 ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-05-05 01:33:09 UTC | #10 You wrote, "iPhone 7 is a POOR light source..." Yeah, look at the spectrum, and you don't want to use this light source to evaluate artwork. It's not a high CRI. But, as I wrote, it's surprisingly good as a light source for camera-scan of color-neg and then inversion in NLP. Why? What does this tell us about the importance of CRI for the light source? I don't know, but will keep investigating. Yes, of course Solux has been the gold standard. Kodak/Pakon adopted this for their terrific 235 scanner. Is it still? I have all these bulbs. Grand question: Solux puts out a lot of heat (50W) compared to LEDs and iPhones. Is there an advantage to this bulb? And, if so, it is big enough to be worth the bother of accommodating the heat? My examples posted above were probably NLP 1.2; will be worth rechecking. ------------------------- adam | 2019-05-09 22:43:57 UTC | #11 Is there an easy way to mount a 50W MR16 bulb, such as the Solux 4700K, so that it can be used with DSLR scanning? I have searched and searched online and I can't find any actual lamps to hold the bulb. I'd love to be able to try an MR16 bulb for my backlight. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-05-10 20:57:11 UTC | #12 I had trouble with this. Solutions: - Buy a MR16 track lighting head, take it apart, and rewire as needed - Buy this pack of MR16 sockets, attach to something that can stand some heat, or just hold it in place with a clamp. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYQTT8R You want the GU5.3 base, not the GU10. ------------------------- adam | 2019-06-05 03:09:19 UTC | #13 Thanks Richard. I read about this new LED backlight on Reddit, and I ordered one. I have to say it is a huge upgrade from my previous LED light (a cheapo tracing tablet). Here are the specs: * 95 CRI (or so they say, I don't have a way to test that) * very bright at full settings * very finely textured surface is has a matte finish and seems to generate few if any Newton Rings * even distribution (passed the "underexposed picture of it" test) * adjustable color temp and brightness * it can work on cable or on battery * at $58, it's less than half the price of a Kaiser Slimlite Plano * doesn't get very hot after being on for several hours * when I'm not using it, I can use it as a video or photo light with the hotshoe mount. * can be used on tripod/lightstand (e.g. when using a Nikon ES-2) or can be laid on its back (e.g. when using a copy stand). if you plan on using it on it's back I'd recommend resting it on four small blocks (maybe wood or rubber) so as not to block the vents. I think the RALENO Led Video Light should go on the "Reccomended LED Panels" in the top post ( hint: @nate ) https://www.amazon.com/Camcorder-Dimmable-3300K-5600K-Ultra-Thin-Portraits/dp/B07PMSBLTH/ There is also an older version that is half the price and has the same features, but it isn't as bright, has a smaller battery, and doesn't support charging while using, which could be limiting. Still, at $35 it could be a good budget budget panel that provides 95 CRI. https://www.amazon.com/RALENO-Lithium-Battery-3200K-6500K-Adjustable/dp/B07FL2ZFFS/ ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-06-13 02:58:01 UTC | #14 What are good light sources for camera-scan with NLP? I have done experiments and posted on this over the past few months. Tonight I updated my conversions with NLP 2.0.0 of my Fuji 200 test box negatives with a range of light sources. I can recommend these lights as giving the best colorful results, listed alphabetically: - Flash, with or without RA54 filter - Kaiser panel - Solux 4700°K incandescent bulb - SORAA 4000°K LED bulb In addition, I can say the iPhone 7 (or 8 or X) gives a very good result. Hope this is helpful. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-06-13 03:10:13 UTC | #15 Here's the comparison Flash and Kaiser. Excellent conversions, nice clean whites, good colors. (Frontier, PreSat 4, Standard, Film=Fuji, minor adjustments to light/dark). ![](upload://gjkUQr9ST0LalAKBgUdWTGGORBR.jpeg) ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-06-13 12:27:48 UTC | #16 Shutter speeds for the tested light sources. All at f/5.6 at 1:1, so this is an effective aperture of f/11: - iPhone and Kaiser panel about 1sec - SORAA and Solux bulbs, depends on positioning and diffusion, but I shot at about 1/30th - Electronic Flash at your camera sync speed ------------------------- lucian | 2019-06-14 08:54:30 UTC | #17 Hello, Does anyone know if there is a difference between the old Kaiser Slimlite LED and the new one Kaiser Slimlite Plano in terms of CRI. Thank you. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-06-26 01:41:24 UTC | #18 Here's a new option, a crafted box about 1.5" high with built-in LED light source and nice aluminum negative carriers for 35mm and MF. http://skier.com.tw/web/en/Products/products_ad.jsp?gs_id=CY1473322516411&fbclid=IwAR0oQvd5IslO77Y5hwbmdxQKC3i3WRb4JRnrpaAk_91v2_CxYvj-wWYcX2w First, the product is quite good; the web site is spotty. Communication with the guy in Taiwan is excellent. If you like the item, go ahead and order with confidence. Delivered to me in the US exactly one week after ordering. This is the product: A wooden box, internal LED illumination, good looking negative holders. Plugs into US 110v power; switch in the line cord. (European editions??) ![190621%20Skier%20CopyBox|527x500](upload://qhUfgcjlzm9iL2vMlFm22REFX5M.jpeg) Internally, there's a power supply and an LED panel that just about fills the box, 1/2" below a diffuser. ![IMG_3489|375x500](upload://yxF7mGCSEMy4gSAlp47jPaNgAf.jpeg) Light from this panel is bright. For camera scan at 1:1, f/5.6 nominal aperture, exposure will be around 1/100th. Far brighter than a Kaiser panel. This box is designed for camera-copying, while the Kaiser is designed for judging transparencies. (In similar setup, I had exposures of about 1 sec with Kaiser.) Spec for the back light is 5600°K and 97CRI. I measured (iPhone Pocket Light Meter app) at 5100°K. Pretty good. How good is the light? I'll compare to flash which is my "gold standard" (along with Solux). Test conditions: UV filter. 1:1 shot with Sony A7. Good blocking of all stray light. Convert in NLP 2.0 using Nate's recommended settings for a neutral conversion (Basic, PreSat 5, Linear+Gamma) and I used Film=Fuji. ![190621-TestBox-Flash-vs-Skier-UV-DSC1550|690x485](upload://qH0BPzMZ1giaQaTTnz5jHFfHEeh.jpeg) I think that's an excellent comparison. Good colors all around, no cast on the white t-shirt. All with no manual adjustments. (Another big bravo to Nate!) Negative holder for 35mm is nicely creafted aluminum. Care taken so that sliding the negative through cannot scratch the image area. I worried this might let the negative be not-flat, but it looks pretty good. Opening shows part of sproket holes and some rebate. (iPhone shot of the opening with a negative.) ![IMG_3492|690x483](upload://52uW4OIUxtPxpRoFPPOjmpXLqff.jpeg) MF negative holder is a nice design. Adjustable for formats. Minimum opening is 56mm x 60mm. Max is 56mm x 91mm. Advertised as 6x45 to 6x7, but I think it's 6x6 to 6x9. Question is how does this compare to a Kaiser panel? My answer: It's thicker (about 1.5"), includes negative carriers, it masks extraneous light, and the quality of light is at least as good. For backlighting for Camera-scan for NLP, in a vertical setup, I think this is quite good. One more: It's not setup for slides, but you can place a slide on top of the 35mm carrier, just fits left-to-right. Will work fine for slides one at a time. ------------------------- nate | 2019-06-25 15:52:39 UTC | #19 Excellent review, @Richard1Karash - thanks so much for sharing. Seems like a really great light. Just went to order one and it looks like it is already on back order (the Negative Lab Pro kiss of death!). Have one on back-order and can't wait to try! ------------------------- TomasF | 2019-06-25 20:33:00 UTC | #20 Wow, guess I ordered just in time, then! I ordered mine sunday evening, and it just shipped, so I guess I got one of the last in stock. Sorry, Nate! :worried: Really looking forward to trying it out, though! :smiley: ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-06-26 01:58:33 UTC | #21 Note the imprint on bottom of the light panel: CN-T96_DB_V2 Can anyone identify this panel? Seems like a good light source. ------------------------- Yann | 2019-06-30 16:00:29 UTC | #22 As I got an email from Kaiser directly these days they told me that the older panels with CRI=88 are no longer produced since two years ago. The newer ones with CRI=95 are extra marked as that on the packaging. They also have a so called FilmCopy Vario Kit with a holding device for 135 and 120 films and the LED light box. Here is the link in English: http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/en/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp?nr=2458 For lovers of the german language here is the original text: *********************************************** Sehr geehrter Herr Rester, vielen Dank für Ihre Email. Die Leuchtplatten der Serie slimlite plano haben alle einen CRI 95 wie es in unseren Unterlagen und auf der Webseite vermerkt ist. Leuchtplatten mit einem CRI 88 sind bereits seit über zwei Jahren ausverkauft und dürften schon lange nicht mehr im Handel sein. Die "aktuellen" Leuchtplatten haben auf der Verpackung den Vermerk mit einem CRI 95 aufgedruckt. Damit ist eine Unterscheidung ggf. möglich um nicht doch noch eine alte Leuchtplatte zu "erwischen"... Da wir nicht auf Amazon verkaufen, ist es sehr schwer, den leider noch alten Wert aktualisieren zu lassen. Ebenso aktualisieren die Händler nicht Ihre Webseiten, auch wenn man sie explizit darauf hinweist. Zur Digitalisierung von Filmmaterial gibt es auch das FilmCopy Vario #2458 incl. der Leuchtplatte #2453: http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/de/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp?nr=2458 Damit lassen sich Filmmaterialien von Kleinbild bis 6x9 per Kamera und Makroobjektiv hochwertig digitalisieren. Mittels Dreibeinstativ oder Reprostativ kann die Kamera dazu exakt ausgerichtet werden. Gerne helfen wir Ihnen bei weiteren Fragen zu unseren Produkten weiter. Freundliche Gruesse / Best regards i.A. Andreas Haerlin Techn. Support ********************************************* ------------------------- Skippy | 2019-07-05 16:31:43 UTC | #23 @Richard1Karash I just Googled CN-T96 light panel and got a bunch of hits for the Nanguang CN-T96 video and product lighting kit. Not sure how or where he's sourcing the exposed LED panel for his light box though, but I didn't look into it much further. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-07-06 14:29:48 UTC | #24 Yes, on eBay, Nanguang CN-T96... I now have this. Opening up, it appears to be the same light panel as on Skier. Here's a comparison with the Solux, a "gold-standard" backlight for camera-scan. Based on this, I can highly recommend buying the $50 Nanguang light. It is far brighter than Kaiser and the color is excellent. (One caution: Mine came with a European plug.) Click on image to see in full fidelity. ![190706-TestBox-Solux-vs-NanguangCNT96-DSC1606|690x422](upload://69OVBt0dyjFp4JCQLKcqguJCmXo.jpeg) This is the product. $35 with free shipping to the US. ![00%20AM|392x406](upload://ut1eHtxaF1UvPB4c8yJvphYlC6g.png) ------------------------- mgilvey | 2019-08-11 01:54:32 UTC | #25 I've been using this little Logan 4x5 5600˚k box. [Logan 4x5 light box](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1416812-REG/logan_electric_750218_a7a_slim_edge_light.html?ap=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0aPVh9r54wIVFInICh3_LQ1jEAQYASABEgK2h_D_BwE) ------------------------- nate | 2019-08-11 15:17:43 UTC | #26 @mgilvey - just checked, and I can't find a CRI value listed for that Logan box, which is usually a bad sign. ------------------------- mgilvey | 2019-08-11 19:15:54 UTC | #27 They are under Smith-Victors banner, I sent them an email to ask. ------------------------- mgilvey | 2019-08-13 01:37:14 UTC | #28 The CRI for the Logan lightbox is 85. ------------------------- tonyjuliano | 2019-08-16 12:49:54 UTC | #29 Re: the Skier product... This is fabulous! Just what I was looking for, I ordered last night and it shipped today. I only wish I had seen this before spending way too much time and money assembling my own rig from various components. Oh well, it was a learning experience to say the least. Thanks for sharing! ------------------------- tonyjuliano | 2019-08-18 13:50:40 UTC | #30 [quote="Richard1Karash, post:18, topic:130"] One more: It’s not setup for slides, but you can place a slide on top of the 35mm carrier, just fits left-to-right. Will work fine for slides one at a time. [/quote] There’s definitely a setup for slides! Flipping over the the 35mm carrier is made for just that! ![image|370x286](upload://wToS8oflFKcJ8NTogE46AJ3CwEk.jpeg) ------------------------- tonyjuliano | 2019-08-19 19:22:39 UTC | #31 I received my Skier Copy Stand today. Very quick shipment! Only one problem... I got the copy stand, but film box and holders missing! @Richard1Karash , Did you have to order separately? ------------------------- nate | 2019-08-20 13:24:48 UTC | #32 The light box (with the wooden box plus film holders) is a separate product from their copy stand. As I understand it, they are no longer selling it (may be a production issue?). ------------------------- tonyjuliano | 2019-08-20 14:57:49 UTC | #33 Bah! What a disappointment, The copy box is truly what I was interested in. The copy stand is very good quality, none the less. Looking for yet another solution. Kaiser has one, but it seems expensive... ![image|515x500](upload://uWIiunkqrdrW8qx6Unj03bgturB.jpeg) http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/en/produkte/2_1_produktanzeige.asp?nr=2457 ------------------------- nate | 2019-08-20 15:19:42 UTC | #34 Yeah, I'm really interested to try that out, but agree that it is expensive. Plus, as far as I can tell, it doesn't have the ability to advance each frame, so would be pretty slow to use. You should also check out the [MK1 from Negative Supply](https://www.negative.supply/). I have a beta unit on loan from them, and it is awesome. You use the knob to advance and align each frame. Here it is in my setup. ![IMG_2179|375x500](upload://tcHWGYXldxjV98aazxJ6t1hXF9D.jpeg) Super fast, super flat. Got through an entire roll of 35mm film in about 3 minutes, and the results were great. ------------------------- tonyjuliano | 2019-08-22 03:39:22 UTC | #35 @nate... Thanks for the suggestion. After looking further into the NegativeSupply unit, I’m thinking it’s pretty pricey too. It’s like $300 US, plus also limited to 35mm only. I’ve decided to take a chance on the Kaiser unit. Couldn’t find a dealer here in the states but Fotospeed in GBR has stock. I emailed them, and they told me that for 35mm film strips the pressure plate can be adjusted to easily just pull the film stock through, quickly advancing from frame to frame. Plus, it seems much more versatile as it can accommodate any format up to 6x9, and mounted 35mm slides. My only concern is that the 35mm mask looks a little “restrictive”, but I’m sure I can easily alter the opening when it arrives. Not bad for $225! BTW, you’re local to me, I’d be happy to lend it out, or show you my setup when it arrives. Venture on over to East Kensington, and I’ll even buy you a drink in Fishtown sometime! Thanks again for all your effort with NLP, it’s been a revelation to me! ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-08-23 20:20:31 UTC | #36 Tony, write them; they are OK with English and reply in a day or two. My understanding: The CopyBox and film holders are out of production right now, some kind of product problem, they expect to be able to offer them again in September. As for your question on ordering, I don't know. I just bought the CopyBox. ------------------------- tonyjuliano | 2019-08-23 20:39:22 UTC | #37 Thanks @Richard1Karash... I did email them, twice now. They offered no reply about the copybox. The copystand is a good value for the money paid, so I’m happy with that for now. ------------------------- tonyjuliano | 2019-09-03 03:33:45 UTC | #38 Skier copybox II in production and available in October. $189 USD gets you a 97CRI light source and holders for 135 format films and slides, plus all medium formats up to 6x9. Looks like a bargain. http://www.skier.com.tw/web/en/Products/products_content.jsp?gs_id=GS1567146643860&chk_who=content&isPage=true#1 ------------------------- nemokanemo | 2019-09-11 15:06:31 UTC | #39 Unfortunately I made a mistake with a cheap tracing panel so am looking for another option. The Nanguang CN-T96 seems like a good deal. Do you have a holder for the film too or are you just placing it on top of the light? ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-09-11 16:38:22 UTC | #40 No, you'll need some diffusion. With this and most video lights you can see the individual LEDs. So, you'll need to rig something to hold the light, the diffuser, and the negative/slide. Look for "stackable bamboo box 6x9" which are intended as drawer organizers. ------------------------- nemokanemo | 2019-09-14 04:01:08 UTC | #41 Cool, thanks. What would make a suitable diffuser or can it have an impact on the scan? eg grain or colour shift. Wondering if some sort of tracing paper or sheet of acrylic would be good. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-09-14 16:07:31 UTC | #42 Yes, diffuser can have an impact. Key point is to hold the film a bit away from the diffuser, enough so that any texture in diffuser is well out of focus. For camera-scan of 35mm, 1/4 to 1/2" works for me. What to use? Easiest is drafting mylar, plastic sheet used for drafting. It's translucent. Brand Dura-Lar works for me and is readily available here. ------------------------- Hansha | 2019-09-17 07:44:43 UTC | #43 [quote="nate, post:2, topic:130"] Kaiser Slimlite Plano [/quote] I think adding any JUST - Normlicht panel would be appropriate here :slight_smile: ------------------------- mrtuck1 | 2019-09-26 12:21:58 UTC | #44 What lens are you using and what DPI are you getting? ------------------------- Terrell | 2019-10-05 17:56:54 UTC | #46 Since an iPhone and iPad was listed, would the screen on a Mac Book work as well? ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-10-11 03:43:07 UTC | #47 Video lights as backlight for cam-scan of negatives with NLP. I've commented before on the Skier CopyBox as a good backlight source. It plugs into wall power and is quite bright. I wanted to compare compact (e.g. 3x5") video lights, intended for hot-shoe mount. I compared three to the Skier and all produce excellent NLP conversions. Skier CopyBox is the brightest, 1/150 sec at ISO 100, f/5.6, at 1:1, no adjustments. Price: $189, and now back in stock, version 2. The light panel is CN-T96, find it on eBay or AliExpress for ~$30, a bargain. Godox LED-M150 video light, plastic, light weight, 1/50th sec. Brightness adjustment only. Price: $40, a bargain. Boling BL-P1 video light, built like a tank, adjustable bracket, rechargeable battery, selectable color temp and brightness, 1/50th sec. Price: $159. Aladdin A-Lite, the pro alternative, comes with a diffuser, rechargeable battery, selectable color temp and brightness. 1/30th. Price $430. NLP: White Balance on unexposed film, Frontier, PreSat=3, Standard, Fuji, and a bit of Brightness adjustment. ![191010-LightTest-Boling-vs-Skier|690x443](upload://mnbwaThcGAuHd1kYgm4iPruAsBz.jpeg) ![191010-LightTest-Godox-vs-ALite|690x442](upload://jenLPPs9QlcS9N2cFvMvoKbPmm7.jpeg) ![34%20PM|677x499](upload://tm2bqUI2oIw7Z2nH5m58HWjUhwS.jpeg) ![44%20PM|472x500](upload://6tQewIpRXuVHMWM6YzxhJNWgHOJ.jpeg) ![30%20PM|690x400](upload://lUkEwLdIYsvZxzaGsUUnChdgsss.png) ![51%20PM|655x500](upload://dMIHDk5jDeOEbQwhxamdiyYpeiy.png) ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-10-11 14:16:15 UTC | #48 More on back-lights. Tracing panels and iPad/iPhone. TikTeck tracing panel, from Amazon, measured 6700°K, brightness adjustment only. I think the light is uneven. Exposure 1/3sec. Very inexpensive, $22. Note muted reds, color cast on t-shirt. Kaiser Slimlite Plano, a quality light panel. Brightness adjustment only, battery powered. Exposure 1/2sec. About $100. Excellent result. Apple iPad Pro 11" (late 2018 model), latest Retina display (3-color, narrow band?). Show a while image, max brightness, turn off True Tone. Exposure 0.6 sec. Note especially vivid reds. Apple iPad 3rd Gen (older model, from 2013). Exp 0.5 sec. Very good overall. Avoid TikTeck for negatives, but might be OK for chromes. Others are good. Current iPad and iPhone displays produce very vivid reds in NLP conversions. Note exposure times much longer than for video lights. Same settings as before: WB on unexposed film, Frontier, PreSat=3, Standard, Fuji, then a bit of Brightness adjustment. Kaiser, iPad (2018 or 201), all will do a good job for NLP conversions, if you can accept exposure times. ![52%20AM|690x447](upload://bYxThQzSJSq287fW045iziY0eAv.jpeg) ![19%20AM|690x449](upload://1f0rTsog21T5Uwd3I2xPM5hs8gT.jpeg) ![31%20AM|690x447](upload://dKmJWZdzvFBAVQrtViHi3ynuauu.jpeg) ![07%20AM|641x500](upload://qLM6Ecn3eDh3ZeeGdrlHifucnvv.jpeg) ![36%20AM|645x500](upload://ir5Lt6IgPLy48ndeLC0DUtuNcNr.jpeg) ![58%20AM|690x401](upload://ajAEQ679eOdo0ogPwVqr3RYYhwF.jpeg) ------------------------- art2work4 | 2019-10-17 16:10:48 UTC | #49 [quote="Richard1Karash, post:42, topic:130"] Dura-Lar [/quote] Hi Richard, can you perhaps provide a link to a specific type of Mylar that works best? I browsed for Dura-Lar, but there are so many different types (wet media, matte, clear, etc). thank you so much ! ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-10-19 14:27:48 UTC | #50 Sure... This is the one I bought: 0.005 thick, matte on both sides. https://www.amazon.com/Grafix-Dura-Lar-9-Inch-12-Inch-Sheets/dp/B0027AAOL6/ ------------------------- art2work4 | 2019-10-20 14:59:48 UTC | #51 Hey Richard, thanks a lot ! ------------------------- salasource | 2019-10-20 18:16:18 UTC | #52 [quote="tonyjuliano, post:35, topic:130"] I’ve decided to take a chance on the Kaiser unit. [/quote] Any feedback on the Kaiser filmcopy vario? Can't find no info other that official product details of this device. ------------------------- WindowsXP | 2019-11-28 04:05:54 UTC | #53 I just got the CN-T96 video light after being dissatisfied with the colours from using a Huion light pad but the LED's are spread quite far apart across the panel so I'm wondering how others have gone about using the CN-T96/nanguang panel? ------------------------- Miki | 2019-12-13 22:16:06 UTC | #54 This thing looks like such a great solution! Thanks @Richard1Karash. My only question is when feeding 120 film through, do you find it could easily scratch the emulsion - i'm worried about that happening. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-12-14 14:24:01 UTC | #55 Miki, I assume you are asking about the Skier CopyBox. The aluminum negative holders are very good, as good as any I've seen. Specifically, the design has relief, so the carrier touches the film at edges but not in the image area. It's a compromise between allowing the film to move through vs. clamping down hard to hold flat. For a carrier that allows the film to move through, I think this is quite good. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2019-12-14 14:29:06 UTC | #56 WindowsXP asked "How to use the CN-T96 light panel." You need separation and diffusion. I use one or two layers of Dura-Lar (see post above Oct 19). Separation about 1/2" or more light -to- diffuser -to- 2nd diffuser if used -to- film. Thus, it requires a bit of rigging, a box or separators. Wooden keepsake box from the art store or bamboo drawer organizer box, either gives a reasonable start. ------------------------- zlov | 2020-01-06 14:02:42 UTC | #57 Thanks to Richard, Nate and others for all this information. The Skier set-up looks great, but I'm in the UK and it seems to only come with a US plug. I could use a step-down transformer, but does anyone know if this would cause issues re brightness, colour, or anything else? Thanks! ------------------------- TomasF | 2020-01-06 18:41:14 UTC | #58 Hi, I'm in Norway and we're on 230V too and use euro plugs. The unit I have (the early version) supports both 110V and 230V so all I needed was a pin adapter, which I keep a few of around for such situations. ------------------------- msflsim | 2020-01-10 14:06:13 UTC | #59 I'm experiencing a weird issue with the kaiser slimlite plano. Toward the top there is a visible fence like pattern that is showing through the panel. I am guessing this is not normal and should be completely diffused? ------------------------- runswithsizzers | 2020-01-10 15:43:11 UTC | #60 An additional diffuser is necessary with the Nanguang CN-T96 because the individual LEDs are clearly visible as hot spots. I built a box from scrap 1/4" plywood that holds a pane of glass about 1/2" above the light panel. Two sheets of Dura-Lar matte were taped to the glass to smooth out the hot spots. I plan to try a sheet of 1/8" translucent plastic if I can find some. I believe what I want is described as 55% translucent, #2447 (?) ![FXE25226|647x500](upload://b98wh9D1CFWBnRqqOXnviejCdKB.jpeg) ![FXE25234|690x459](upload://ai8tTuAEoxByM4Uku37AWmspriM.jpeg) ![FXE25235|690x459](upload://xr3iF4yOr5z3xvnvxFRRenVrSAU.jpeg) ------------------------- gcoates | 2020-01-16 18:48:45 UTC | #61 For those of you using the CN-T96 light, how are you converting it to use US-style outlets? ------------------------- ejdalise | 2020-01-25 14:10:49 UTC | #62 This is for anyone with the Skier Sunray Copy Box (original or II): I saw my concerns mentioned in passing, but I wonder if anyone could expand on them: 1) how flat does it hold the negatives? "Pretty good" was mentioned but I don't know how that compares to, for example, the DigitaLIZA scanning mask. Also, because I'm just now researching this method for scanning negatives, just how much non-flatness is acceptable? 2) it's not explained how the aluminum holder keeps from scratching the negatives as they slide through. "Care was taken" could mean both that the design ensures the negatives don't get scratched OR, that the user has to be careful about not scratching the negatives when sliding them through. Metal edges seem an unfriendly surface for film and my main concern is not so much not being careful, but the amount of time required to be careful (i.e. it affects scanning time — I have a lot of negatives). Thanks for any clarification or real-world experience anyone can provide. ejd. ------------------------- zlov | 2020-01-26 02:23:26 UTC | #63 I had similar worries about the Skier box and I have been very happy. I would go for it. In an answer to your questions: 1. Very flat, much flatter than the digitaliza holders, and it will even hold some curl-prone expired film very flat. I have had no issues with flatness. 2. I've seen no scratching at all, at least on the frame itself, although it's possible it might scratch the outer part of the negative, near the sprocket holes--but if so, not visibly. No care is required in use: scanning with this setup is quick and easy. ------------------------- ejdalise | 2020-01-26 03:42:31 UTC | #64 Thank you for the reply. It eases my mind as I work through the decision process. ------------------------- argaach | 2020-01-27 09:27:43 UTC | #65 Thanks to **zlov** for that reassuring information, I too have just pulled the trigger on a Skier Copy Box. Another poster earlier asked about plugs and voltage on these; I see in the Specification of the device that it'll run on 100 - 240 v and comes fitted with a conventional 2-pin US plug. The voltage should be good for anywhere in the world, and the plug is easily dealt with by use of an adaptor or directly wiring on the correct local one. ------------------------- argaach | 2020-02-05 20:46:41 UTC | #66 Just by way of a followup to this, I can confirm that the Skier Copy Box works perfectly on the Irish grid, 230V 50Hz. It's a beautifully made piece of kit, and the negative holders are really nice! I'm looking forward to using it, it's so much more elegant that the messing about I was doing with homemade masks and light pads/flashes. ------------------------- danhzambrano | 2020-02-10 06:37:11 UTC | #67 iphone light source is really good in your scans! what did you use to elevate the negatives? ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2020-02-10 19:01:32 UTC | #68 [quote="msflsim, post:59, topic:130"] kaiser slimlite plano. Toward the top there is a visible fence like pattern that is showing through the panel. [/quote] Yes, I've seen that on mine as well. Not quite uniform at the edge. Just keep the film away from the edge of the panel. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2020-02-10 19:02:43 UTC | #69 [quote="ejdalise, post:62, topic:130"] not explained how the aluminum holder keeps from scratching the negatives as they slide through. “Care was taken” could mean both that the design ensures the negatives don’t get scratched OR... [/quote] Yes, the design is good, keeps the image area from touching anything. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2020-02-10 19:04:51 UTC | #70 [quote="danhzambrano, post:67, topic:130, full:true"] iphone light source is really good in your scans! what did you use to elevate the negatives? [/quote] I use a negative carrier. Can't remember exactly what I did, but if more spacing required, just add spacers to lift the negative carrier. One drawback of this rig is that it doesn't stay reliably in one place. So, you have to adjust the positioning for each image. ------------------------- msflsim | 2020-02-10 20:34:57 UTC | #71 I've sent the Kaiser back since and got the Skier CopyBox II instead. Much better results and cleaner workflow. ------------------------- Ademeion | 2020-02-16 11:57:46 UTC | #72 This is an interesting and useful thread, but my problem is that I have film negatives to be digitized smaller than 34×26mm – at least 28×28mm and 13×17mm. There doesn't seem commercial, non-DIY solutions (especially negative holders) available for them. I sent a message today to Skier to alert them to the problem, but it may of course take some time before they have patched their product line :-). ------------------------- argaach | 2020-02-17 12:50:32 UTC | #73 28x28mm sounds like 126 format film, and 13x17mm is probably 110 film. I got negative holders for these sizes from Negative Solutions (http://www.negative-solutions.com/index.html) to suit my Epson V800, and I find they work perfectly well with my newly acquired Skier lightbox. They make holders for loads of different film sizes. I'll cut a nice mask out of stiff black card sometime to make them work even better. ------------------------- Ademeion | 2020-02-17 13:19:42 UTC | #74 Thanks for the tip, argaach. This solution sounds promising, and I'm comfortable with the pricing. Have you paid close attention to how well these holders keep the film strip straight, so that every part of the film is in perfect focus? Even if there's some curvature on the film? I assume that the flat surfaces of the holders are even so that you can just lay them on the lightbox without any additional support or horizontal adjusting? ------------------------- argaach | 2020-02-17 17:10:09 UTC | #75 They hold film strips as flat as any other holder I've seen or used, that doesn't involve sandwiching the film between glass plates. That of course, has it's own problems. They appear to have no discernible misalignment or out-of-square issues that I can see or measure, so they sit as square and level to the camera as any other holder on the light source. Film strips with 'normal' curvature appear to work just fine in them. ------------------------- tjxism | 2020-02-24 09:35:31 UTC | #76 Hi to all! I've only started digitizing negative films recently and I've found something very interesting. My negative films suffer from minor scratches from the camera. These scars are quite visible while I use Plustek 8200i for scanning (convert with NLP). I recently acquired a Skier lightbox and used my digital camera and tested on the scratched negatives..... the scars become invisible!!! After some investigation I found it's due to the Callier Effect (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Callier_effect). The Skier is a very diffused light source which helps to hide the dust/scratch. Does this affect the resolution of the scan?? According to WIKI diffused lighting doesn't affect the overall contrast of the color neg scan but does cause a bit softness. iPad, if placed close to the film, should be a more collimated light source, but I don't see any difference in sharpness in tests posted here. Does this mean iPad could be a better light source in terms of sharpness? Does anyone have experience on this? FYI, I use Plustek in 3600 dpi mode. I copy with a Nikon Z7 at 1:2 magnification and find the details to be similar. I'll wait for my copy stand to arrive and try copy at 1:1. The higher resolution the camera is beating the scanner, but I am wondering if there is any advantage changing the light sourcing to iPad/iPhone for more collimated lighting. ------------------------- Digitizer | 2020-02-24 08:37:59 UTC | #77 Tablets or any other display-like light source are designed for the widest viewing angle possible. These devices are therefore close to perfect diffuse light sources unless you put a (huge) lens in front of them that redirects the light towards the negative or camera. As we can see in the article about the Callier effect, the influence of collimated or diffuse light differs for silver vs. dye based films. Collimated light will get us crisper copies off silver based film. Collimated light will also get us crisper images of dust, hair or scratches, no matter what our film is based on. I have taken test shots of negatives with a condenser based enlarger (collimated) as well as using a lighttable (diffused) light sources and found that the lighttable gave me images that were more forgiving and that images taken with collimated light looked sharper and more contrasty with the downside that film grain plus camera noise was more obvious in bright areas. Nevertheless, I'm not sure yet, which kind of result I prefer and therefore keep testing before I get into serious production. ------------------------- tjxism | 2020-02-24 09:49:27 UTC | #78 Yes, I see people investing into collimated light sources. That's not really practical for me personally. I only shoot 135 and mostly in color. Making huge investments into expensive collimated light source in order to get a more difficult file to process (without benefits of material details, only sharper grain :slight_smile: ) doesn't sound right to me. If I care that much about resolution I will switch to use a digital camera :slight_smile:. ------------------------- Ademeion | 2020-02-26 02:08:16 UTC | #79 I got a reply from Skier, in which the representative says the following: - That is a good suggestion. There is currently no production exclusive to negatives of 28×28mm and 13×17mm. You can use 135 film holder to scan negatives of 28×28mm and 13×17mm first. I'm not sure how that could bring optimal results, as the film strip assumably wouldn't be supported from all sides. Anyway, I'll probably order my film holders from Negative Solutions. Thanks again argaach for your help ------------------------- Digitizer | 2020-02-28 13:51:09 UTC | #80 Reviewed a few shots I had taken from my Durst M605c Light source and ran a shot through NLP to see what it did with it. This is what I got. ![Bildschirmfoto 2020-02-28 um 14.22.43|626x416, 50%](upload://ztl4dwlKruxmiGF3Newo8DmEfhc.png) As we can see, the lighting at medium format settings is everything but even. Colored borders showed already in the original shots, but the histograms did not look that bad. Processing one of the shots with NLP created this image, which exaggerates the situation. Nevertheless, the shifts in hue were visible in some of the landscape shots I tested with. If you want to verify your lighting, you can proceed like this 1) Take a shot of the backlight at the settings (focus, aperture) you set for digitizing 2) White balance the raw file in Lightroom and crop it to eliminate borders 3) Apply NLP - This here was converted using the Basic setting with Saturation set to 3 BTW, the tone curves look like this: ![Bildschirmfoto 2020-02-28 um 14.49.18|460x500, 50%](upload://4UNtWpraQWfSwtt5q4nqOqJsiXX.png) ------------------------- nate | 2020-02-28 15:29:27 UTC | #81 [quote="Digitizer, post:80, topic:130"] If you want to verify your lighting, you can proceed like this 1. Take a shot of the backlight at the settings (focus, aperture) you set for digitizing 2. White balance the raw file in Lightroom and crop it to eliminate borders 3. Apply NLP - This here was converted using the Basic setting with Saturation set to 3 [/quote] Hmm... I wouldn't recommend this. NLP will always try to normalize the image, so even if you gave it a blank shot with nearly perfect light, it would still probably produce a result like this, or even just not work (if there isn't room to place points on tone grid). What you could do is to copy/paste the settings from an actually frame conversion, and apply that to the blank light source image (you may need to adjust the exposure so that it isn't blown out). This way, you are seeing the same contrast that is being applied to a real conversion, but now just applied to your light source - so it should be a more accurate representation of the amount of unevenness present... Or, you can just crank up "contrast" all the way to 100, which is what I usually do when teseting! -Nate ------------------------- Digitizer | 2020-03-03 09:32:44 UTC | #82 I've run a few similar tests and found that they gave me some insight on what my light sources and camera sensors are doing under certain conditions, the practical value of these tests is rather small though, they just helped me find smudges on the front lens that I did not see but still turned up in the macro photos from time to time. No need to waste your time with such tests hoping for practical use! ------------------------- alinden | 2020-03-03 12:02:29 UTC | #83 Thanks a lot for this thread, very good information. I'm on a Plustek 8100 currently, but I have banding issues and wanted to give the Nikon ES-2 a try now. Just deciding on a light source now. Has anyone experiences with the Lume Cube 2.0? This seems like a good combo with the ES-2, and I could use a portable light source anyway. Just not sure about the specs... On their website they say it has "True Daylight Balanced 5600K Color Temp & 95+ CRI". What do you guys think? ------------------------- Digitizer | 2020-03-03 14:41:42 UTC | #84 I thought of checking out the Lume Cube because it looks good on paper and does all the things you mention in your other post https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lume-cube-2-0-as-light-source/1359 What I'm now using after my first test with an enlarger as light source is a Kaiser slimlite plano. The following thoughts brought me there: Enlarger 1) :grinning: I already have two of them 2) :grinning: they are sturdy 3) :grinning: they take up to 6x9 cm negatives 4) :grinning: negative holder has adjustable crop borders 5) :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: awkward to use unless the camera has a flip-out screen Lume Cube type of Lighting 1) :grinning: looks good on paper 2) :thinking: how to mount for more than occasional use? 3) :thinking: can I get a negative holder for FF and MF film? 4) :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: not my first choice! Kaiser 1) :grinning: lies flat under the enlarger that I can also use as a copy stand 2) :grinning: also serves as a light table to browse negatives in their filing sheets 3) :grinning: was readily available 4) :thinking: negative holder(s)? The Skier box looks exactly like the thing I could use best because it can easily handle uncut film with its film holders that are well centered to the light box. Something that my Kaiser and Lomo filmholders do not do without further crafting, but hey, why not? The thing that really got me off a lume cube scheme was the effort for creating a stable and sturdy setup and the additional cost of getting all the mounting materials like screws and rails. BTW, I also looked the "FilmToaster". ------------------------- alinden | 2020-03-05 10:54:07 UTC | #85 Thanks for the answer! I received the Lume Cube today, so far it seems like a very nice piece of gear. Once I have the ES-2 as well I'll make some comparisons with my Plustek. Regarding your points: All very valid. If I would have the space I would probably go for a copy stand as well. For me though it's an advantage to have a setup that I can quickly store in an airtight box somewhere when I don't need it. I only shot like 1 roll a month, so I don't scan that often. Also, my room is not dark, so having a "closed system" like ES-2 seems more convenient for me in regards to ambient light. ------------------------- Digitizer | 2020-03-05 12:55:12 UTC | #86 [quote="alinden, post:85, topic:130"] having a “closed system” ... seems more convenient [/quote] True, that's certainly a bonus, although none of the copies I've taken without darkening the room have turned out wrong so far. ------------------------- pinguur | 2020-03-06 17:03:12 UTC | #87 Hi, maybe not the perfect place here, but has anyone experienced difficulties importing the skier lightbox into the EU? (Germany, to be specific) The customs deparement didn't hand it out to me because of the us-plug and because of "it has electronics" in general. Now it is being tested... and the lady told me the chances are rather slim that it gets accepted. ------------------------- argaach | 2020-03-08 08:23:37 UTC | #88 Mine came in to Ireland no problem, about 1 month ago. ------------------------- bearojupiter | 2020-03-08 11:00:02 UTC | #89 Just received one this week, apart from the import duty taxes that were ridiculously high (France) it has arrived very quickly, it was well packed and the lad at Skier included a US to EU plug adapter. ------------------------- Shrike123 | 2020-03-18 19:53:38 UTC | #90 I'm wondering if anyone has used an LED light from a hardware store? This one has 3000K, 4000k and 5000K settings with a CRI of 90 and only $20 CAD: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/illume-4-inch-led-recessed-led-panel-light-with-integrated-3000k-4000k-or-5000k-options-in-satin-nickel-finish-energy-star-/1001063503 ------------------------- Digitizer | 2020-03-18 21:05:15 UTC | #91 [quote="Shrike123, post:90, topic:130"] anyone has used an LED light from a hardware store? [/quote] yes, I've used LED bulbs in my enlarger, they work well and keep the housing cool. I've dropped trying led "lamps" because they are too expensive just to find out that light quality might not be good enough. Cheap lamps usually have lower quality light. PS: Your link gets me a 404 (I'm in Europe) but I can still find a bunch of lamps (Nicor DLR Series 6in.) that advertise with a CRI of 94. ![Bildschirmfoto 2020-03-18 um 22.04.21|353x499, 50%](upload://70QC47mEIz9nEKPxb7OJlYpFhnN.jpeg) ------------------------- pdesmidt | 2020-03-19 19:00:31 UTC | #92 I use a similar system to the light panel in plywood case above. I use a Pixel P50 panel: https://www.amazon.com/Pixel-Bi-Color-Photography-3200K-5600K-Brightness/dp/B07KQ189JB/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=pixel+p50&qid=1584644049&s=electronics&sr=1-2 I need a big light source, as my dslr scanner is mainly used for 8x10 film. The case is made out of solid, white pvc. I used white plexi as a diffuser, and strip of neutral density light gel to even out the light. The distance from the light source to the diffuser has a big effect. On top of the diffuser is a piece of P99 textured acrylic, with the texture side up. This eliminates Newton's rings. Masking off stray light is very important. Before this new system, I used RGB led strips, thinking that being able to control the individual channels would be useful, but I ran into problems with banding. ------------------------- Richard1Karash | 2020-04-06 16:00:29 UTC | #93 Suggestion for light evenness. The usual problem is darker edges in the negative image. This turns into a bright or colored ring around the edges in the positive. 1) Find a piece of processed uneposed film (It'll be orange). Scratch a few marks on it. 2) Place in your cam-scan rig, focus on the marks and expose, Import file into LR 3) In DEVELOP module, WB somewhere near mid-image 4) Then check brightness in center vs corners (just hover cursor, read LR's #'s) 5) Corners will likely be darker than center. Add radial adj to bring up corners. 6) Use this radial adj as Develop-Preset on Import, fix evenness before NLP Here's an example. Looks OK at first glance, but note brighter away from the center. Note the colored blob upper RH corner. Also, NLP has skin too dark. All resolved with radial adjustment pre-NLP. ![850800-BadAntiVignette-DSC0539|690x459](upload://uaMEwzueQpCHgCjrtYFFrUkpCdH.jpeg) ------------------------- Digitizer | 2020-04-06 18:07:37 UTC | #94 Another possibility for better evenness is Lightroom's [Flat-Field Correction](https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/flat-field-correction.html), which is mentioned in this post too: https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/orange-bleed-at-edges-of-scans-need-help/1125/9 On the other hand, you could just counterbalance the effect by adding some vignetting back into the image. Based on your posted *jpg*, it looks like it is possible with these settings. Other settings should be able to correct the effect in your raw files. ![Bildschirmfoto 2020-04-06 um 20.04.24|670x278, 50%](upload://j4zkYXo9SWKDxEYWp377RZH5qLd.png) If you find your settings, you could save them as a preset and apply it on import. ------------------------- puleddu | 2020-04-07 08:16:21 UTC | #95 I got the Kaiser Slimlite Plano in the mail today and I plugged it in, I noticed one things: Operating the switch on the side that is supposed to toggle between USB and battery power results in the light flickering for a moment, when I touch the switch. Is this something anybody else experienced or should I be worried of an unstable light also during normal use? ------------------------- Digitizer | 2020-04-07 08:45:23 UTC | #96 Same thing here and I never saw any flickering during normal operations with USB power. I use battery power only to review film strips or for short tests. When I take photos of slides and negatives, I always use USB power in order to keep brightness constant and not have it slowly creep dimmer over time. The switch does not look and feel like a heavy duty one million cycles switch though and it's probably best to not use it unless it is necessary. ------------------------- jnstovall | 2020-04-07 13:28:26 UTC | #97 I second Digitizer's suggestion. Flat field correction should completely correct this problem and eliminates all of the tedious work adding and adjusting radial filters, etc. to counteract the unevenness. ------------------------- Sylvain | 2020-04-07 14:07:03 UTC | #98 @bearojupiter how high ? ... I wanted to buy a Skier copy box but don't want to spend 200€ on the copy box + 100€ on taxes ... I'm currently scanning (mostly) B&W film with sony a7 + olympus 80mm on auto-bellows + cheap light table from amazon + Digitaliza 135 and 120 film holders. I'm not happy with the light source nor the film holders and skier copy box appeared to be a nice solution to my problems : curled film in digitaliza holder, time spent to put the film right in the holder, some light reflections on the film holder and quality of the light source. @bearojupiter or other skier copy box user, do you think it is worth the money? ------------------------- bearojupiter | 2020-04-07 15:36:28 UTC | #99 Hi @Sylvain, The taxes were pretty high. Like 70 euros. Wasn't too happy when the post guy announced it to me when he sowed up at the door :angry: Anyway, this is a great light source and holds the negative quite flat. It's very quick to scan strips or full rolls. I highly recommend it. However depending on where you live the taxes might be different or you can perhaps talk to the guy at skier who is very nice to post it as a gift or something of the sort. Let me know if you need more information ------------------------- Jaroslaw | 2020-04-17 08:10:49 UTC | #100 Hey @Sylvain, maybe you want to check the Kaiser FilmCopy Vario Kit? Its 299€ right now (https://www.fotokoch.de/Kaiser-FilmCopy-Vario-Kit_15947.html) and includes it fantastic light source plus the ability for any filmholder you could dream off. ------------------------- Sylvain | 2020-04-18 06:36:50 UTC | #101 Thanks Jaroslaw, at the end I bought a Skier copy box. Do you own the Vario? What are the knobs for? -------------------------