# Anyone using Nikon PS-4/PB-4 **URL:** \ **Category:** Digital Camera Scanning\ **Created:** [July 2, 2019, 11:45am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/anyone-using-nikon-ps-4-pb-4/373 "2019-07-02T11:45:18Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 6\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![sputnik](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/user_avatar/forums.negativelabpro.com/sputnik/32/207_2.png) [@sputnik](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/sputnik)\ **Post date:** [July 2, 2019, 11:45am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/anyone-using-nikon-ps-4-pb-4/373/1 "2019-07-02T11:45:18Z")
Hi everyone, first time posting here! I was wondering if anyone has tried using the Nikon PB-4 bellows and PS-4 film adapter for scanning 135 film. Best regards, Anders ---
**Author:** ![Richard1Karash](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/bbce88/32.png) [@Richard1Karash](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Richard1Karash)\ **Post date:** [July 7, 2019, 11:14pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/anyone-using-nikon-ps-4-pb-4/373/2 "2019-07-07T23:14:57Z")
Sorry to be slow. Yes, I am using this rig. Works great. Only tricky thing I’ve found is picking the right lens so you can focus at the magnification you want. 55 macro works at 1:1 (with an FX body); won’t focus at 0.67x to capture 35mm on a DX body. The shiftable slide/negative holder in the PS-4 is really nice for stitching. Five shots at a little over 1x to a DX body stitches to a very big file. ---
**Author:** ![sputnik](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/user_avatar/forums.negativelabpro.com/sputnik/32/207_2.png) [@sputnik](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/sputnik)\ **Post date:** [July 8, 2019, 5:13am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/anyone-using-nikon-ps-4-pb-4/373/3 "2019-07-08T05:13:10Z")
Thanks a lot Richard! You confirmed what I thought and hoped for. I have the 55/2.8 and I think I will give this a try. /Anders ---
**Author:** ![Steph](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/22d042/32.png) [@Steph](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Steph)\ **Post date:** [November 25, 2019, 8:46pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/anyone-using-nikon-ps-4-pb-4/373/4 "2019-11-25T20:46:00Z")
Good to see, this works somehow… I use the following setup to digitize negatives: - Sony a7II („full frame“) - Nikon Micro Nikkor 55mm 2.8 - Nikon PB-6 Bellows - Nikon Slide Copier PS-6 I gave up, because I could not figure out what light source I have to use. Of course I tried to follow some advice I had found online, but nothing really worked (Flashlight, LED-light, natural light). The light is not even enough and sometimes light comes in at the edges (my PB/6 and PS/6 look like new) Normally, I digitize at night, so I am eager to discover a setup that works with artificial light. If I had not these light exposures issues, the setup would be great: you can insert the whole 35mm film and advance it manually - this saves lots of time, since you do not have to charge stripes sperately… Any advice…? This would be much appreciated. Steph ---
**Author:** ![Richard1Karash](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/bbce88/32.png) [@Richard1Karash](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Richard1Karash)\ **Post date:** [December 22, 2019, 3:03am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/anyone-using-nikon-ps-4-pb-4/373/5 "2019-12-22T03:03:16Z")
Steph - Sorry to be slow; I don’t check this site often enough. Don’t know what’s causing the uneven lighting, and this has not been a problem for me. One possible tip: setup a narrower light source. I have seen reports of shading at the edges when using a wide light source (e.g. a 10" wide video light) behind the PS-4/PS-6. If you’ll post an example, I’ll be happy to take a look. ---
**Author:** ![Redivivus](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/r/3da27b/32.png) [@Redivivus](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Redivivus)\ **Post date:** [March 2, 2020, 9:18am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/anyone-using-nikon-ps-4-pb-4/373/6 "2020-03-02T09:18:23Z")
Just in case anyone still cares about this topic: on a PS4 it is (barely) possible to get 0.67x magnification with an fx body and 55mm macro as follows: instead of using a standard Nik-FX adapter (Nikon F lens to FX camera) use a shorter one made out of a [PIxco Nik-M42 adapter](https://www.amazon.com/Pixco-Adapter-Macro-Camera-camera/dp/B00B2KF67Y) + a [Fotasy M42-FX slim adapter](https://www.ebay.com/itm/Slim-M42-Lens-Fujifilm-Fuji-X-Mount-Adapter-for-Focusing-Helicoid-only-/222739225376). The combination is short enough (focuses beyond infinity) that in conjunction with the bellows gets you only 0.67 magnification. (You might need to futz a bit with some thin spacers because when you screw the second adapter into the first the camera might end up not being horizontal, but it is an easy fix. Eg: use some copper foil tape.) PLMK if you want more details, pics. Regarding uneven lighting and related issues: Peter Krogh (the author of the DAM book) shows a PS4 based system that he sells on vimeo #366532954 (sorry as a newbie I can only post two links per post). Basically you can use a small piece of ACRYLITE plexiglass (buy on e-bay) as a diffuser in-between your source and the film holder. BTW, remove the matte glass in the holder to avoid dust troubles.