# Let's see your DSLR film scanning setup! **URL:** \ **Category:** Digital Camera Scanning\ **Created:** [March 16, 2019, 3:36am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27 "2019-03-16T03:36:44Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 7\ **Page:** 24
**Author:** ![Harry](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/f6c823/32.png) [@Harry](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Harry)\ **Post date:** [September 22, 2026, 7:03pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27/468 "2026-09-22T19:03:31Z")
Ingenious mirror procedure to confirm that base and vertical support are at 90º. I guess that you might also confirm that your camera & lens are also perfectly aligned with your film holder before a session. I’m not sure that I’ve got anyone local to me in the UK who would be prepared to do CNC machining but maybe I haven’t tried hard enough. The platform for my Durst Sirioneg is a steel plate that slides for stitching. Cutting that out by hand was a labour of love/desperation with a fret saw, hack saw, files and a drill for the internal corners of the aperture. Satisfying when it was finished, I’d had this large sheet of 1/8" steel plate for years, took ages though. It does mean I can make good use of Neodyium magnets though. ---
**Author:** ![Noddemix](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/eb9ed0/32.png) [@Noddemix](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Noddemix)\ **Post date:** [October 5, 2026, 10:27am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27/469 "2026-10-05T10:27:50Z")
![PXL_20261004_145852540](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/uploads/negativelabpro/original/2X/f/f48051433df1a60c865417301641cc85596438ae.jpeg) ![PXL_20261004_145906630](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/uploads/negativelabpro/original/2X/e/eac8aa1df8f1e755bf7f54e05d33baaa0a923f78.jpeg) ![PXL_20261004_150104556](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/uploads/negativelabpro/original/2X/5/57a72959fe4c9035fb746a5b74ff8637731c1fe9.jpeg) In theory it should be ideal, but in practice it can only be adjusted on two axis, and the third, un-adjustable axis (yaw) is far from level. How did you deal with that? I’ve gone to great lengths to level my whole rig as I’m also photographing other media, so having to shim this device really defeats the purpose, which is a shame because it seems otherwise very nicely put together. I guess on a tripod this axis is irrelevant so they didn’t bother making it level, or they manufacture it to very loose tolerances on that axis. ---
**Author:** ![Digitizer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/57b2e6/32.png) [@Digitizer](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Digitizer)\ **Post date:** [October 5, 2026, 12:47pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27/470 "2026-10-05T12:47:04Z")
> [@Noddemix](#): > > In theory it should be ideal, but in practice it can only be adjusted on two axis, and the third, un-adjustable axis (yaw) is far from level. How did you deal with that? The main thing is to use the right tool for the purpose. Here, the purpose is to align the subject and image planes perpendicularly in respect to the [optical axis](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_axis), which is the direct line between the center of the sensor and the negative. This is best accomplished by using a mirror like so: [How To Adjust for Low Distortion](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/how-to-adjust-for-low-distortion/1676) Using a bubble level refers everything to the center of earth’s gravity - and every little deviation adds up to an alignment that is less than perfect in comparison. The device you show is built to adjust two axis indeed and the third is done by slightly rotating the negative holder or lens or camera (bayonet mounts have some play) - or done in post. And in order to use the device to its full, it should go [between the camera and the column](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27/146) (or the vertical board in my latest rig). Using shims is a way to circumvent the need for additional elements and junctions, all of which add to the elasticity of the setup. Instead of the shims, I could have used the pole-height adjuster, but then, the whole installation will be more susceptible to vibration and flex. Directly attaching the rail to the vertical board creates a setup into which i can attach the camera with almost no need for further adjustments - except after removal and re-attachment of the camera cage. ---
**Author:** ![Noddemix](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/n/eb9ed0/32.png) [@Noddemix](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Noddemix)\ **Post date:** [October 7, 2026, 3:55pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27/471 "2026-10-07T15:55:53Z")
Thanks for replying. My copy stand is also used for photographing other media and these workarounds sound like a recipe for frustration. I have a more-or-less completely square/level setup that requires very fine adjustment to account for slight flex at the arm/mount, so knocking everything out of level to accommodate the Bresser device and then having to compromise in post or elsewhere doesn’t appeal. I decided against shimming because the extent of the unlevel is affected by adjustments made to the other two axis. Instead, I’ve ordered lift stages that I can screw into my optical breadboard and allow adjustments at any of the four corners of my light source. Shame because the MH-100 is a nicely engineered thing for sure, but I think moving the subject rather than camera should serve me better. ---
**Author:** ![Digitizer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/57b2e6/32.png) [@Digitizer](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Digitizer)\ **Post date:** [October 7, 2026, 8:20pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27/472 "2026-10-07T20:20:30Z")
> [@Noddemix](#): > > I think moving the subject rather than camera should serve me better. From an engineering point of view, it’s the smarter solution too. Once the optical axis hits the center of the subject, the subject plane can be tilted (and rotated) and a gimbal style subject plane holder would be best indeed. Something like this: ![Screen @ 2026-10-07 um 22.15.03](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/uploads/negativelabpro/original/2X/9/9d1af3e60112a7c41146b8a6fa2a75e7d34d9835.jpeg) Remove the labyrinth and add a board with a rotating inset and put a light panel into the box. Onto the rotating inset, mount the negative holder. With everything level/perpendicular, only minute movements should be necessary. BTW, adjusting four lift stages is a pain, three will do. Three points prevent twists that you might otherwise cause… ---
**Author:** ![Quinton66](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/q/dec6dc/32.png) [@Quinton66](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Quinton66)\ **Post date:** [October 9, 2026, 10:26am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27/473 "2026-10-09T10:26:22Z")
Is anyone using translucent opal acrylic glass sheet to disperse light rays before it hits a negative? ---
**Author:** ![Quinton66](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/q/dec6dc/32.png) [@Quinton66](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Quinton66)\ **Post date:** [October 13, 2026, 11:57pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27/474 "2026-10-13T23:57:19Z")
Impressive results! I have same setup but a Mamiya 120. I cannot shoot anything less than F16 and even then I’m getting fringing from the backlight. It’s not great. What are you shooting fstop wise? Any tricks to getting the camera level? I have a custom built rack which is dead level with a spirit level [Previous page](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/lets-see-your-dslr-film-scanning-setup/27.md?page=23)