# Skies are yellow instead of grey or blue

**URL:** <https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/skies-are-yellow-instead-of-grey-or-blue/4091>\
**Category:** Image Editing Help\
**Created:** [September 12, 2021, 8:33pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/skies-are-yellow-instead-of-grey-or-blue/4091 "2021-09-12T20:33:21Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 7\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![PBurns](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/p/9de053/32.png) [@PBurns](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/PBurns)\
**Post date:** [September 12, 2021, 8:33pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/skies-are-yellow-instead-of-grey-or-blue/4091/1 "2021-09-12T20:33:21Z")

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### When posting about Image Conversion Issues, please include the following information:

1. Which version of Negative Lab Pro are you using?  
v2.2

2. If using DSLR scanning, please include: 1) camera make/model, 2) lens make/model, 3) light source make/model  
A6400, Sony 50mm 2.8 macro, Skier Sunray box v2

3. If using film scanner, please include: 1) scanner make/model, 2) software used for scanning, 3) settings used for scanning

4. Please add the conversion you are having difficulty with, along with a short description of what you are seeing wrong with it.  
I’m struggling with this particular roll which was a Kodak Gold 200 from the early 2000. I don’t know why skies looked yellow and a lot of yellow cast, i.e. on the umbrella by the town square

5. It’s not required, but it’s very helpful if you can provide a link to the original RAW or TIFF negative before conversion. If you don’t want to share this file publicly, you can also email it to me at [nate@natephotographic.com](mailto:nate@natephotographic.com)

Here are the jpeg and raw files.

> **[Microsoft OneDrive](https://onedrive.live.com/?id=E57F46359FB33DA2%21183&resid=E57F46359FB33DA2%21183&e=bxRuf1&migratedtospo=true&redeem=aHR0cHM6Ly8xZHJ2Lm1zL3UvcyFBcUk5czU4MVJuX2xnVGNiZHEzN0M4RjZaODZtP2U9YnhSdWYx&cid=e57f46359fb33da2)**

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**Author:** ![Singaporeandy](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/user_avatar/forums.negativelabpro.com/singaporeandy/32/2149_2.png) [@Singaporeandy](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Singaporeandy)\
**Post date:** [October 26, 2021, 7:20am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/skies-are-yellow-instead-of-grey-or-blue/4091/2 "2021-10-26T07:20:36Z")

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Hi,  
Sorry to jump in but I have the same problem with many of my conversions from negatives which have been poorly stored for decades in the tropics.  
Equipment is:  
Nikon D850 with a 60mmf2.8G macro lens and a Nikon ES2.  
Light source is a Manfrotto 6 LED light source; setup os both on tripods facing each other, full manual mode with base ISO set to 64. I am exposing as set and have not yet tried ETTR.

Workflow is photograph the negatives in RAW; put them through DXO PureRAW which outputs a DNG file; import into Lightroom 6 and WB using a blank from the roll then use NLP.

Has anyone been able to come up with a solution/ideas please? I’m currently having to convert to B+W.

I suspect the negatives have been damaged and/or poor quality developer/fixer all those years ago (20 to 40 years ago.)

Here is an example of what I am getting:

> **[DSC\_2871-NEF\_DxO\_DeepPRIME.dng](https://www.dropbox.com/s/02834fsw2lnmbcn/DSC_2871-NEF_DxO_DeepPRIME.dng?dl=0)**
>
> Shared with Dropbox

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**Author:** ![Digitizer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/57b2e6/32.png) [@Digitizer](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Digitizer)\
**Post date:** [October 26, 2021, 10:01am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/skies-are-yellow-instead-of-grey-or-blue/4091/3 "2021-10-26T10:01:57Z")

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Had a look at your image, @Singaporeandy and got the impression that the negative is beyond enabling decent colours without more extensive post-processing.

In such cases, I often resort to B&W:

 ![Bildschirmfoto 2021-10-26 um 11.59.37.351](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/uploads/negativelabpro/original/2X/3/3179824d50320819169aa7b4ae6ad103775bb86e.jpeg)

Alternatively, DxO PhotoLab 5 with its HSL and local adjustment tools can do something:

 ![Bildschirmfoto 2021-10-26 um 12.16.17.480](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/uploads/negativelabpro/original/2X/0/06bf78567c21e87630d718d89c88fca71a33c168.jpeg)

Results depend on how much time you spend…my choice would be to go B&W except for the one or two shots that I really want to keep in colour, accepting whatever “vintage” look they’ll take…

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**Author:** ![Singaporeandy](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/user_avatar/forums.negativelabpro.com/singaporeandy/32/2149_2.png) [@Singaporeandy](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Singaporeandy)\
**Post date:** [October 26, 2021, 10:22am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/skies-are-yellow-instead-of-grey-or-blue/4091/4 "2021-10-26T10:22:43Z")

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Hi Digitizer,

Thanks for having a look. You’ve confirmed what I have been wondering/suspecting for a while.

B+W it is, then!

Thanks again.

BW

Andy

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Digitizer](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/57b2e6/32.png) [@Digitizer](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Digitizer)\
**Post date:** [October 26, 2021, 10:32am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/skies-are-yellow-instead-of-grey-or-blue/4091/5 "2021-10-26T10:32:53Z")

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> [@Singaporeandy](#):
>
> B+W it is, then!

Processing a series of difficult (regarding conversion) images, I tend to go B&W because of its more expressive potential and sprinkle a few colour images into the set in order to preserve a touch of colour.

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**Author:** ![HERISSON](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/h/ecb155/32.png) [@HERISSON](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/HERISSON)\
**Post date:** [December 12, 2021, 9:57pm UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/skies-are-yellow-instead-of-grey-or-blue/4091/6 "2021-12-12T21:57:48Z")

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@ Singaporeandy  
Intrigued by your negative and your question, I’ve tried some methods in Photoshop(vers. 23.0.2) . First with different adjustment layers after inversion and second also after inversion with the Colorise neural filter, once directly and once after a b/w adjustment. Here are the results. I can send the pds files if wanted.

 ![DSC_2871-NEF_PsCr copy](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/uploads/negativelabpro/original/2X/d/d89a90a409e1844aac7cec2ee81341c76eec4644.jpeg)  
 ![DSC_2871-NEF_Psneural copy](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/uploads/negativelabpro/original/2X/a/afbfb5704ade349a6237d53e0acefb9934b12fe9.jpeg)

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<div class="post-metadata">

**Author:** ![Singaporeandy](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex029/user_avatar/forums.negativelabpro.com/singaporeandy/32/2149_2.png) [@Singaporeandy](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/u/Singaporeandy)\
**Post date:** [December 23, 2021, 3:46am UTC](https://forums.negativelabpro.com/t/skies-are-yellow-instead-of-grey-or-blue/4091/7 "2021-12-23T03:46:49Z")

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Hi Herrison,  
Thank you so much for having a go at sorting out my “little problem”!! I am unfortunately one of the minority who don’t use photoshop and have Serif Affinity Photo instead…  
Your results are stunning and if it is not too much of a problem, i’d be grateful for the pds files and your workflow?? I can then try and adapt it to Affinity as I have so many photos in the same state of repair, unfortunately. One of the issues with poor storage in the tropics.

Thanks again.

Andy
