I want to start scanning my film with my Nikon D610 (24MP Sensor).
I need to get me a macro lens and I’m wonering what focal lenght is actually better?
The NIKKOR 105MM 2,8 AF-D seems to be amazing…but the longer length means I would need a certain distance between camera and my 6x7 negatives. Maybe too big for a copy stand? Any experience? Also, a longer focal length gives higher risk of shaky images (even though with my remote it shouldn’t be an issue right?)
So, what’s preferable from your experience? 55 or 105? Which lens is known to perform better as well?
I use a Canon 100mm macro. Mounted to an old enlarger through a lens clamp provides a stable platform. With manual focusing, live-view and the 2s self-timer, stability is very good.
Not that most macro lenses have a shorter focal length when focused close. Building a horizontal setup like this should eliminate all stability issues…
You should have no problems with a copy stand and a 105 mm lens. I measured with a 90mm macro lens for 35mm film: 28 cm (negative to sensor plane). For 6x6 I measured 38 cm. I fitted the 6cm onto the narrow width of the camera sensor. If you take 4.5 x 6cm you can go a bit closer to fill the frame. Add for your focal length proportionately. For a 105 mm lens that would become 44 cm. For convenience with 35mm you should get a macro lens capable of 1:1. That means that a 35mm negative will fill the frame of a digital full frame camera without having to add additional distance rings between lens and camera.
As to vibrations: Use a cable release and flip the mirror up before taking the shot (procedure as per camera manual) to avoid mirror shock. Do not walk around during exposures. Follow also the detailed instructions offered here.
Alfred
Hi, ideally you need the 60mm Macro lens on a copy stand but I guess it depends on your scanning setup.Any version will do as you mostly use manual focus. I use this with the Nikon ES-2 which works great. have tried all the other film masks on the market but this gives me the best results.
Both are fine because both are capable to capture 1:1 ratio.
I use the 55mm and I’m just fine. Took the one you can get with the best price or which you would use more often.
Don’t be tempted into using a zoom lens - the results are invariably unsatisfactory.
Surprisingly, the old manual 55mm F2.8 micro Nikons will still knock spots off even modern macro lenses for this type of work - and they are cheap.
For 35mm the most foolproof gear is a bellows with slide duplicating adapter. It avoids all the pitfalls of stray light, parallelism and even vibration. Second hand examples are quite inexpensive. A good alternative is the Nikon ES-2 copier but is a bit limited in comparison.
I use Sigma 105 1:1 macro, f2.8 DG DN on Sony A73. Excellent results even down to f13. Of course you can go lower but I’m avoiding refraction and f13 shows excellent sharpness and DOF.
Manual Focusing with A73 very accurate.
Read reviews.
Temporarily mounted on tripod that has center pole reversed and is underneath tripod pointing down. Will get a copy stand in the future but this works with no movement.
Using Bluetooth remote thru phone to set camera, check focus and timer for shutter.
A bit large and heavy but gives me a little more working distance from film.
Using EFH to hold films or slides and Viltrox video light that is same size EFH.
Light is very bright and allows for shorter shutter speeds and lower iso than when I was experimenting with cheap light panels or iPad for light source.
I wipe down film before it goes into EFH and use blower for each image.
It’s interesting as I am using the Sigma 70mm macro lens on my Sony a7iii and it is also sharpest at f/13. I suppose Sigma used a similar design for both lenses.
To control your camera, you might consider tethered shooting. I use the Tethertools software (Smartshooter 4) so that I can have the shots go directly into Lightroom. You can use the free Sony Imaging Edge software but it doesn’t automatically feed directly into Lightroom and there’s an extra step to get the photos into the catalog.
The nice thing about using tethered shooting is your monitor serves as the panel you are looking at to check focus. I have a 24 inch ASUS photo monitor and it helps a lot.
That’s good advice to wipe and blow the dust off each image before scanning them. Good tip.
I use the Sigma Macro 70mm 1: 2.8 DG, I use f / 5.6 (I read a technical review that the best combination is 5.6) however I am fine, it has a very good resolution, but the focus is slow, okay for Macro but not for anything else
Hi Belinda, I know this is an old thread but was hoping you could help. I’m trying to scan b&w negs with a plustek scanner and am not that pleased with the results. Most say I’d get better results with a digital camera setup. I sold my digital gear and went back to using film. I’ve got the 55 Nikon Micro 2.8 manual lens I use with my F3. With the ES-2 Nikon kit would I be able to use that lens? I know the 55 isn’t a 1:1 (I think it’s 1:2). Then just need a digital camera? If so, what’s the minimum I should be looking for in the Nikon world? Would an older full frame such as the D700 work? Or are there cheaper alternatives (cropped sensor Nikon)?
Well, your lens is no slouch that’s for sure. The micro Nikkor 55mm F2.8 AIS is very sharp, has been extremely well-corrected for optical aberrations and has exceptional flatness of field. It is therefore an excellent optic for duplication and/or copying works including scanning.
Its only flaw is its limitation to a 1:2 reproduction ratio…but the good news this is easily remedied with Nikon’s PK-13 Auto Extension Ring. This I believe was originally sold with it and gets it to 1:1 life-size magnification. It is fairly easily available on eBay.
The ES-2 is a very good, simple-to-use piece of kit for this task and as everything from film holder to camera body is all in one piece there are far fewer issues with light leaks or camera shake than in other setups.
As far as camera bodies go, it all depends on your budget. Obviously the bigger the sensor the better and if it’s going to be dedicated to this task alone (I note you are a film enthusiast) then other considerations are much less important.
I wouldn’t personally go as low as 12 Mpx but one of the 24 Mpx bodies would do fine ( D610, D750) or better still a 36 Mpx D800/D800E/D810 or finally a 45 Mpx Z6/Z7 (although this would require an FTZ adapter).
After that, you need a decent (high CRI) light source or flash and you are good to go.
Gold standard advice from Belinda of course. Since you mentioned APS-C it would be possible to use the ES-2 with the 55mm Micro-Nikkor on an APS-C camera and if you did you’d need the 14mm PK-12 extension tube instead of the 27.5mm PK-13. However you would also need extra extension between the lens and the ES-2 and you can get 52mm extension rings for this, something around 20-24mm would work I think. You could then consider something like the Nikon D7200.
If it is only to be used for film copying then you could also consider a Sony A6000 as these seem to be plentiful at the moment, you’d just need an inexpensive Nikon to Sony adapter.
Hi Belinda! Ordered the PK-13 so now need the es-2 kit and a digital camera (I sold my D810 to buy a Nikon F2a and an F3). Like you mentioned, a 610 or 750 would be best, but if I went with a DX body (cheaper of course) what would I be losing? I know the crop factor would be an issue, would it be cropping in too tight and not get the whole neg or slide?