Film 'structure' appears very evident in Camera scans

[Digitizer]

@Photodom

scan a slide at a variety of aperture/shutter speeds and do the same with a negative and see what I can get. I will also scan each option with -1 and +1 exposure compensation to see what the effect is and maybe create an HDR version in Lightroom. This should provide me with enough options to find out which one works the best.

With color negative films, contrast is not the problem for a digital cameras. You’ll be able to fit the histogram. Underexposing is not a good idea as @FatihAyoglu explains above.

I’ve found that I can bracket between 0 EV and +2 EV with most of my negatives and that the shot in the middle of the series yields the best conversions.

HDR composites have not given me an advantage that outweighs the effort. It’s certainly okay to see what you’ll find though.

Check this out for best practices, it might help you find your way more easily:

Best Practices for Scanning Film Negatives with a Digital Camera (DSLR or Mirrorless)

Scanning your film negatives with a digital camera can be an incredibly rewarding – or incredibly frustrating – process, largely depending on your setup and know-how. While DSLR (or Mirrorless) film scanning holds many promising results – like RAW capture, faster capture times, and sharpness that rivals $10,000+ drum scanners – there are many potential stumbling blocks along the way that could prevent you from getting the results you want from your film negatives. The purpose of this guide is …