I am looking for advice in regards to camera and lens for neg scanning
We are a small digital print studio and we are wanting to add camera scanning of negs (35 and 120) as a service to clients. We don’t have a ton of cash lying around to throw at the set up. Hopefully if there is a good response from clients we can upgrade the gear as we go along.
At the moment we have a light table, film advancer and a copy stand.
We already have a Canon DSLR (5d mark3). So the obvious next step is to get a macro lens for the DSLR. But the DSLR still gets taken out of the workshop on location and so not ideal in terms of having to reset the scanning set up every time
Ultimately we would want to invest in a dedicated mirrorless. My understanding is that a mirrorless has significant advantages (weight, shutter movement etc). So maybe we need to bite the bullet and just somehow come up with the cash for a decent mirrorless camera right from the start?
So my questions…
Which mirrorless cameras should we be looking at? And which lenses? What are the popular choices in the ‘semi-professional/prosumer’ bracket?
Can we use the DSLR successfully for now or are the advantages of mirrorless such that we shouldn’t even bother with the DSLR?
I suppose you also have to work back from the quality that you want to offer your customers. 22MP is acceptable for 35mm ‘lab’ scans I would have thought, but a bit on the low side for 120, particularly for 6x6 120 which will bring it down to around 14MP. On the other hand that might be all your customers both want or expect at the price points you have opted for. Basically there’s potentially a lot more detail in 120 than you’re getting out of it, in just pixel terms you are ‘scanning’ at the equivalent of only 1750 ppi. The problem is of course that higher MP sensors come at a cost, even secondhand and you are paying for a great many fantastic features in the camera itself that you won’t be needing as a digital film copying camera.
Mirrorless bodies really do lend themselves to this, they tend to be lighter, you can fit a wide range of ‘legacy’ lenses if you want to and magnified focus peaking is so easy. A used 42MP Sony A7R3 might be a starting point. That said many on here use DSLRs still.
If you stick with your Canon then a 70mm f2.8 Sigma DG ART Macro would do the job very nicely I would think.
I always somehow liked the combination of a Sigma 105 Art Macro lens with a Sigma fp-l camera, but never actually tried that gear.
Now, I use a Canon R7 with a Canon EF100mm f/2.8 USM. I’m also testing a 7Artisan 60mm Macro (that I got brand new for about 100.-). Both deliver decent results when used carefully.
Venuslens/Laowa have good reputation + MTF curves, e.g. the 100mm and the 65mm 2x macros.
Keeping negatives flat and the whole rig shake-free is something to look into.
Also, I strongly suggest setting up the lens as described in the article — I use the APO-Rodagon 75mm f/4. You can use any similar lens. This approach keeps the setup rock-solid and prevents any lens sag under the weight of the camera. You’ll be able to use virtually any camera body, as long as you can get an adapter for it — which is easy to find these days.
Thanks Vlad. Still finding our way. We already have a copy stand set up - and your focus targets - so going ahead with that for now. Seeing as we already have the Canon 5D Mark3 we are going ahead with that for now, especially after doing some reading and research and general advice is that the body is less important then the lens - when starting out just “use the body you have and get a sharp lens”
Here you go, Joe. I’ve copied thousands of slides and negatives and prints with my setup. The two photos below the PDF link are of my latest setup. I added two 168-LED panel video lights to do copying. I use the same macro lens for everything.
For 120, it may be advantageous to use a higher megapixel camera (30-50 MP).
You can use a dSLR, but after using mirrorless, I don’t want to. There are too many advantages of mirrorless cameras to go backwards. Chiefly, there is no mirror vibration. There is no shutter vibration (I use the electronic shutter). The camera can be triggered from a smartphone. It also has a two second self timer. The OLED screen fully articulates, so I can sit down while composing and copying. It just goes on and on…
Personally, for a beginner, most any DSLR or mirrorless camera of at least 20-24 megapixels combined with a decent macro lens will be acceptable. It will give you the opportunity to test your systema and refine your techniques.
I would add that it would be best to select a camera which can be operated via tethering to what ever computer and software combination you have. The ability to operate the camera from the software and have the photos automatically copied to your computer and software makes the process a lot easier and faster.
Thanks burkphoto. Lots of helpful tips here, the PDF is GREAT, much appreciated
And thanks Phil, good advice,
Seeing as I have a full-frame DSLR body on hand, going to start with that. Can I use a 60mm macro lens? I’ve found a reasonably priced 60mm macro selling locally.
60mm is fine, though if you say what it is others might have direct experience of it. Macro lenses are not specifically designed for flat field film copying so some are better than others. You could even use a 60mm f2.8 Micro-Nikkor ‘D’ with a relatively inexpensive adapter, manual focus only though. The ‘D’ version has an aperture ring.
