First of all, it is my debut on this forum and i tried to find some post close enough to my problem, but couldn’t find any, so my apologies if it might be echoing any other post i may have missed.
So i just purchased the last NLP v3 to scan all my films, had followed the guide advices for how to scan properly my films and after already 5-6 differents films, mostly Kodak Pro 100 and Kodak Color 200 (but i also have some Fuji 100 and 200 yet to scan) i face the same problem.
All the vegetal subjects, mostly turn into a very warm green and sometimes almost yellow/orange, instead of the well known beautiful green i’m used to from labs’ scan.
Here are a few examples (on left the scan from the lab, on the right my own scan with basic NLP standard set up no change on the other set up yet) :
I found a way to get to something better, but straight from the Lightroom set up, like a combination of edit on NLP (ctrl+N) then Lightroom edit then back to NLP to try other stuff.
In parallel, i tried all the differents options from NLP but i don’t know if i’m missing something, or is there a way to get it right without spending 10min on each picture individually and try to figure things out directly from the NLP interface ?
Here is a link to my RAW files :
Thank you in advance for the help !
Sincerely
PS.
The reason why i choose to scan my film by myself is because scan prices has increased so much in France, and mostly because its quality has become really bad. The last films i got back from one lab are so bad and almost blurry i needed to scan them again properly.
When posting about Image Conversion Issues, please include the following information:
Which version of Negative Lab Pro are you using? NLP V.3
If using DSLR scanning, please include:
camera make/model : Fujifilm X-S20 + Valoi 360 full Setup
lens make/model : Fujifilm X 60mm f/2.8 Macro
light source make/model Cinestill CS-LITE with the Cool tempurature for NEG
Virtual copies converted without WB (I found that some fotos do better without)
Virtual copies converted with WB
Virtual copies converted without WB but wit roll analysis and settings as highlighted
Note that I didn’t target “perfect” conversions because looks are a matter of taste. My hint is to play with NLP’s numerous settings. As far as I’ve learnt from experiments, the following settings matter most for what I do, YMMV though.
pre-saturation (I tend to use 1 because it produces a more natural look)
border buffer (I use this to e.g. remove burnt skies or if I’m too lazy to crop before converting)
2nd tab presets (here, I mostly try and retry until I get close to what I want)
all others (for individual tweaks. Too many possibilities for bulk processing imo)
NLP offers a lot of choices, almost too many imo, and learning when to do what is easy, but not easily transportable from one negative or film stock to the next. I therefore experiment a lot (using virtual copies) and learn how to move in NLP rather than to find fixed settings.
Hello
I have not yet enough experience to offer suggestions. I have bookmarked “Digitizer’s” responce in this thread. I have not sot film for more than 25 years now, though I have boxes of negatives of missing or damaged prints from years ago. I use digital cameras now and an x-rite color checker card sometimes if accurate color is important. I’ve not yet had serious problems digitizing color negs with NLP. For those still shooting with film I wonder if using something like the color checker could be a fix. So I searched the forum and found this comment from 5 years ago. I’m suggesting it’s use with at least one frame to get close. Sure color changes thru the day and with each film stock. It won’t help me, digitizing old film! X-Rite Color Checker Passport: Calibrating Camera to backlight - #6 by GeorgeZenko
