I’m new here and have been struggling with this same issue for many years. It often occurs for me when I photograph fields of flowers and I believe it is related to much of the frame being one color. I am using V3
Camera Scanning with canon R5 with a 100mm macro lens and a Kaiser slim lite plano with 95CRI rating
Here is an example of it at it’s worst. I have played around with just about everything I can think of or have read on the forums. The roll Analysis makes it worse and often super red. The white balancing can improve things but still leaves blue artifacts or a sickly green tone in the plants.
I’ve tried including the frame edge and cropping into diff sections of the frame and converting there but nothing seems to fix this.
Any tips or ideas would be much appreciated. I’ll include the RAWs here in a dropbox link
Hello,
I’ve just read your notes and although I’ll be of no help for this issue I’d like to adress the same (or maybe the same) circumstances on my side.
Last year I came across a roll of 120 kodak, hm… gold?, with beach scenes only. The only colors in the frames are white sand, blue sea and the blue sky. I invested some time but it did not work out for me either.
So I’ll keep watching this thread if anything of help comes up.
best regards, Christian
It is tricky. Sometimes I find easier to convert with Photoshop. In ACR I choose the Negative Lab Pro profile. After, in photoshop, I set black and white point with levels and then I invert. And I play with curves a little bit to set contrast
I used DxO PhotoLab to 1st invert the image and create a negative copy, which I then edited with the r, g and b curves to create a positive again and make the bluegrass a greengreen grass of home again. For kicks, I turned the yellow petals to red (see HSL tool).
Observe the following in the tone curve:
inverted RGB curve
bent blue curve to reduce the grass’s blues
inverted S curve: Luminance curve to adjust brighness
HSL tool:
yellow tones moved towards red
changed saturation and luminance sliders
Occasionally, some manual adjustment can help like in this case.
Starting with an original RAW negative would need different adjustments. Similar principles apply, no matter if one uses PhotoLab or Lightroom Classic with or without NLP.
Using the original positive copy, the greens can be adjusted roughly with the HSL tool:
Okay thank you everyone for all your help and explanations. I wish there was an in NLP method to do this just for the sake of time cuz all these internal edits via photoshop are def time consuming. However I will say if the image isnt worth the work maybe it’s best to just leave it unflipped and then I think this is a great way to bring the ones that rock in at a higher level. Here is my results with all of your instructions.
