I can’t for the life of me get a clean scan.
Ill include two photos below.
-The second shot was taken with my Fuji xt30 and the specs are on my sensor I believe.
-The first shot is when I scanned with my friends Canon 6D
Id like to deliver these photos with out all these specs and dust spots.
any advice would be great
is there a way I can re wash the negatives? to get any dust off
Those do look like marks on the negative vs the sensor — always worth having an air blower (e.g. the Giottos Rocket Blaster: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/259157-REG/Giottos_AA1900_Rocket_Air_Blower.html) and maybe an anti-static brush and gloves, regardless.
Dust may settle on your negatives while drying, and there are a lot of ways to avoid this — my trick is to run the how shower for a little while to steam up the bathroom where I develop and hang my film to dry: the moisture in the air helps reduce the dust particles floating around and also seems to help the final wash/Photoflo/et al drip off more cleanly.
You can always rewash your negatives, though if it’s dry dust my first suggestions should help. There’s a chance the marks on your example scan are from the developing process itself — are you mixing from a powder kit by chance? Or has the chemistry been used for a while/needs to be replaced?
Overall, even pro labs need to do plenty of spotting on drum scans to remove marks that couldn’t be removed any other way — so there’s always a certain amount of retouching needed no matter how clean your negs are.
Removing as much dust and particles from the negatives (and also film positives) is the main task when capturing a roll of film in my workflow. In order to achieve the best result I use the following:
- An antistatic mat that is used for working with sensible electronical components. It contains a wrist band that is connected to the mat and everything is connected to some electrical ground.
- I’ll start with the blower and try to blow any particles away from both sides.
- For any particles that might still be on the surface, I use a soft anti-static tiger cloth and let the film slide through it, while pressing it gently against both sides of the film. I don’t want to produce any scratches, so this is really a very gentle move only.
- I then put the film (I usually have stipes of 4 pictures) into the holder and blow once more onto both sides - just in case any new particles found their way…
- …and finally I’m using lintless cotton gloves during that procedure to avoid finger prints on the film.
When I find out after capturing a full roll that there are individual photos with signidficant issues (particles), I will give them an extra treatment and shoot them again. It’s a tedious process indeed and it costs me about 25 minutes for a film of 36 pictures. But I haven’t found a quicker way. I could imagine some gadget that lets you drag the film through very soft brushes or cloth for achieving the same, but working anti-static is very important here and with running a strip of plastic through anything is often associated with charging it and collecting more dust…
A quick way to tell where the dust is:
If white, it’s on the negative.
If black, it’s on the sensor, OR a transparency you are working with.
Avoid small lens apertures! They reveal sensor dust more sharply. I usually work 2-3 stops down from wide open.
I wear nylon gloves while handling film. Then, I use in this list of cleaning supplies in order:
- A Giottos Rocket Blower bulb to knock off most surface dust
- A Staticmaster Polonium-strip brush (neutralizes static on the film, then brushes surface dust off)
- An Ilford AntiStaticum cloth (use gently! Wear nylon gloves while using)
- PEC-12 with PEC Pads (go to photosol.com for their supplies).
You’ll still have some dust. That’s what the tools in Lightroom Classic and Photoshop and similar software are for… in addition to a lot of other fixes.