I haven’t tried it I’m afraid as I’ve done the conversions in Flexcolor. With another piece of software called Colorperfect there is a bit of a rigmarole to go through, it may be fine with NLP.
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I have Colorperfect, but it doesn’t seem to work correctly on my system anymore. I much prefer NLP, but am curious to try out Negmaster as well.
I’m guessing that you don’t have any 3F colour negative scans from your previous rental sessions?
Yep! Just rename the extension from 3f to tiff, and you can load them into Lightroom and convert them with Negative Lab Pro.
You can learn more here:
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No, I only output tiffs back then. I’m going to dig up those files to see how they look now. They were mostly b/w, but I have some color negs in there.
It’s great that Nate has come in to point out that he has a recommended workflow for Imacon/Hasselblad scanners and that he specifically recommends scanning to 3F, I’d forgotten but I see that I had bookmarked it so I should have known. I agree that it is an incovenience to have to use a separate program if everything can be done in Lightroom and as I said above it is getting problematic to run Flexcolor these days. Flexcolor must have been one of the first image processing software packages to introduce non-destructive editing with their 3F format but of course it hasn’t been supported for years.
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I have a Nikon D780, a Nikon Micro 60mm AF (non-D), a Godox M150 LED and the ES-2. It works perfectly with modern thin slides, is a bit messy with older thick slides – might try a 3rd party slide holder for that. But for negatives, I struggle with a reversed vignette. Especially for underexposed pictures or pictures that are supposed to be dark in the corners. I thought the LED wasnt bright enough in the corners but I got same results shooting out the window on a bright day. I shoot at f/8 so it’s the sweet spot for the lens. Maybe need to expose correctly from the start, but that’s too late now! Anyone with any tips and tricks? Post crop vignetting in Lightroom helps a bit but doesn’t quite cut it
Welcome to the community! From what you say it looks as if you are describing lens vignetting, I would suggest trying to quantify what you are experiencing by putting a blank unexposed piece of colour negative film from the end of a roll in a slide mount and copying that to give a mid-tone. Then you can use the eye-dropper tool in LR to see how much vignetting you are getting. Alternatively just focus on a slide as usual and then remove it and adjust your exposure (using the shutter speed only) to give the same mid-tone. That lens is a good one and many people use it or one of its variants for this purpose, indeed the ES-2 was designed for it. If it is simple lens vignetting then a radial filter adjustment should be able to fix it and you can create a setup to apply that to all your scans. If it is something else then this procedure might at least help you to diagnose the problem and there is always flat-field correction if you can’t cure it in any other way.