Hello.
I scanned a Kodak Gold 200 frame to test the program and tried to bring the scan as close as I can to a lab scan of the same frame.
I have followed the scanning instructions from the website.
I’m pretty happy with the sharpness but I can’t bring the colors to look as true to life.
In the lab scan , the wood in the wall and the curtains have very well separated and , I think , accurate colors while in my scan they kind of have the same reddish-brown color. Also my whites skew towards blue.
I am using a Panasonic GX80 with an Olympus 30mm f3.5 macro. The light source is a Viltrox 116T which I have set to 5500k.
I am using the free trial version.
The lab uses a Noritsu scanner.
Is there an inherent limitation to my setup ?
Is there something I could do to improve the results with editing or scanning the frame in a different way. I’m not sure where to start.
(I have included the two scans aswell as the raw file).
Welcome to the forum @Vangelis
Gear does not matter, as some say, and therefore, I’d try my luck in using NLP with different analysing settings (color model, pre-saturation) and conversion settings on NLP’s second tab.
NLP adapts to what’s on the negative (not the content/message, but the tonalities and more) and this means that there will be no setting that delivers the best (whatever that means) results, no matter what we convert.
NLP automates the boring, repetitive tasks analysing the negative(s) and
delivering starting point(s), from which we create the result(s) we like.
NLP’s second tab has a lot to choose from and to set and after a while, we can take the guesswork out of our doings. Every now and then though, we get negatives that are hard to adjust properly - but we can still proceed with a positive copy in such cases. Occasionally, conversion results improved by picking up WB from a thin area of the image or not using WB at all.
I recommend to test systematically (helps to find the desired starting point) and use virtual copies to save disk space.