Color temp and workflow

Hi, I’m new to this activity, I have the DSLR, a kaiser stand stand, a vitrox light that seems like a good source, and I also ordered an EFH as film order.

Before starting all this, I want to make sure the color parameters will be right. The light source, as it seems the case for most, will be 5000k (although it’s adjustable to some extend), I will be shooting with an R5, standard profile and adobe color space, and as it’s also a common case, my display has a D65 target.

So, I’m wondering (I’m no color expert), if this will not lead to super warm scans, since the light source is much warmer than the display ? How you guys are dealing with this ? Is that a non issue ?


All in all, your approach seems promising. In order for it to keep those promises, make sure to

  • Check out Nate’s guide
  • Eliminate stray light
  • Shoot raw
  • Run tests with different negatives

The colour space setting of the camera only matters for out of camera jpeg files. The colour temperature of the light panel is taken into account in the white balance step in Lightroom. Colour management in your computer will adjust things for proper viewing on your monitor.

If you encounter issues, there is a chance that they have been dealt with in the forum - or in Nate’s guide.

Thanks a lot, can you point me out a link to “Nate’s Guide” ?

The link to the guide is in the black header area at the top of this page :wink:

Addendum regarding tests: Images can turn out quite differently depending on how you crop and set the “Border Buffer” value, specially if the image includes burnt highlights and how big their part of the image is. Sometimes, it’s advisable to crop some parts off of burnt areas (like an overexposed sky that covers half the image) and sometimes, highlights need to be included:


  • Both images have been converted with the same second-tab settings. the only difference is the border buffer value, which was set to 10% (left image) and 25% (right image) respectively. While the left image looks too dark, skin tones are much better than in the right image.
  • Depending on how you convert an image, you’ll have to correct them in one way or an other.
    One size fits them all can happen, but it’s good to not expect it to do so all the time.

Calibrate your monitor with an X-Rite or Datacolor kit.

Use the Viltrox with all LEDs on, by tuning the color temperature for maximum brightness. I have found that to provide my best results.

DO NOT record JPEGs. You need raw files to work with NLP and Lightroom.

The white balance procedure described on the website — using the eyedropper on the film base in Lightroom before cropping — will handle removal of the orange mask prior to conversion in NLP.

White balance at the camera is only for JPEGs, and since you are not saving JPEGs… it is irrelevant.

Thanks a lot, Can’t wait to get the EFH !