Equipment questions

[sunshine]

Hello,

I’m quite new to film scanning but I want to provide scanning service in NYC with Fujifilm GFX100 series as a side job. Besides, I also shot tons of film before which I never digitized them so at least I have multiple purposes to pursue.

My main goal is to be able to scan 35mm, 120, and 4x5 film with GFX100S and Pentax 645 FA 120mm F/4. I researched about this quite a lot and I would probably need a copy stand, film holders, light source, and etc. My budget is quite tight so I cant spend too much money on the kit while I dont want to sacrifice a lot. Negative Supply looks nice but not my option so far.

There are several questions due to my camera as many film scanning accessories dont really support medium format lenses and sensor size. Negative Supply’s equipments seem nice but totally expensive for sure.

My questions are:

1. Is there any option that I can use a flash light instead of LED light source?
2. Any other systems instead of Negative Supply for the copy stand, film holder, and light source that I can scan 35mm, 120, and 4x5?
3. Does any LED light source can provide enough brightness for F/8, ISO 100, and slow shutter speed?
4. How do you calibrate the white balance since the color checker is not transparent?
5. Does the light source works with an electronic shutter?
6. How do you parallel the camera and the holder precisely?
7. How can I keep the environment clean from dusts as I scan films from my room?
8. Do you think that I need a wider macro lens for some films?

[Digitizer]

@sunshine , most of the questions you ask have been answered in the forum already and therefore, I’d like to raise some topics that you’d probably need to consider.

Vertical setups are easy to work with because we can put things on a table

• but only if things are kept as flush as possible.
• • Consider to put the lighting below the table (needs a hole in your tabletop)
• • Foresee a means to re-orient landscape and portrait photos without rotating the camera
• • Foresee a means to block stray light or work in a completely dark room
• • Keep the column as short and robust as possible, DIY might be lower cost too

NLP and consistent colour rendering

• As I see it, NLP was built to convert the widest variety of negatives (and soon positives)
• • NLP adapts to the RGB tonalities rather than to render “true” colours
• • Specially old/thin/faded negatives take some post-processing effort (and hence time)
• • Old/thin/faded negatives might even take some effort to prepare the conversion

Other aspects

• Dust is the enemy of pro level results and/or profitability. Avoid textiles, add an air cleaner.
• Test with the widest range of (good and bad) negatives, check corner-corner resolution etc.
• Compare your DIY solution vs a pro scanner in a realistic business case, calculate TCO
• Can you match the price and/or quality of other/nearby NYC scanning services?
• How much money can you throw out of the window and for how long?
• Think big, start smart

[Harry]

With respect I think you’re looking through the wrong end of the telescope here. The elements of your setup that you haven’t budgeted for are all crucially important for camera scanning, let alone when starting from scratch and attempting to run a business in NYC. The uncomfortable truth is that these can be very expensive, just something as unglamorous as a copy stand can be expensive if you don’t manage to source a suitable enlarger.

The good news is that there’s loads of good information on this forum in addition to @Digitizer’s excellent bullet points. I’d say the first step is to look through both of these excellent threads:

Suggested backlight sources for scanning film with DSLR

Nate Weatherly posted a pretty thorough reply to a post on Facebook with generic recommendations for light sources that would work better than LED plates such as tracing panels etc. I know @Richard1Karash has done a pretty detailed comparison of different light sources as well. Perhaps it would be a good idea to make a separate thread with information about specific products that are known to work well for various setups (vertical “copystand” type setups, horizontal rails and bellows type setu…

Let's see your DSLR film scanning setup!

Ok, let’s see it! Pictures and/or descriptions of your current DSLR Scanning setup. Just reply to share it! (Bonus points for sharing a few conversions using your setup!)

[Graham]

I agree with @Digitizer’s suggestion to build your own sturdy camera support and copy table with the ability to rotate the subject. Especially as your camera and lens weigh 1.6kg. Or have one made?

[fwolff]

EFH, Essential Film Holder is an economical option. Simple and well made. A lot of film sizes available. You need to provide your own light source and camera stand. They’ve got holiday specials going on and I’ve never had any issues with their shipping.

https://clifforth.co.uk/EXA/

[sunshine]

So far, after checking with other posts, these are what I checked and found:

Light source: Amazon.com

Film Holder: https://lobsterholder.com OR 120 scanning – Tone Photographic

Copy Stand: DIY from 80/20

Probably need to add a rail, tripod head, and more but I only worry about the pole if it can withstand the camera, lens, tripod head, and more.

[burkphoto]

This is a link to my white paper on the topic. The concepts should translate well to just about any situation, as the principles will be the same.

Camera-Scanning.pdf

I’ve since switched to a different camera mount — a 36" length of 1" inside diameter iron pipe, screwed to a floor flange, and equipped with a Superclamp and a NEEWER mini ball tripod head. It is rock solid. See photo.

The LED video light source mentioned in the white paper gives me an exposure of ISO 200, f/5.6, at 1/125 to 1/160 (or equivalent). YES, it works with electronic shutters.

I do not recommend electronic flash, as the spectral response is often odd enough to alter certain colors. There are some far more expensive light sources with 99 CRI and better red response, but I’m content with the Viltrox panel.

I scan strip film with the latest versions of the EFH (Essential Film Holders), but cut negatives require a different approach. You need 6" strips of film to use the EFH. I use enlarger negative carriers for single frames. The EFH will do 6x9, but not 4x5. However, I understand Andrew is working on a 4x5 design.

Note the level in the second photo. It’s how I align both the camera and the film holder to each other.

Dust is a PITA to spot out in Lightroom Classic, so I generally use the items recommended in the white paper. The blower bulb is the first line of defense. Photosol PEC 12 is great for stuck-on goop and fingerprints. In rare cases, I will re-wash silver-based B&W negatives.

If you line the wall behind your copy rig with black plastic used for landscaping, and rub it with an old wool sweater at the start of a session, dust will migrate to the plastic’s static charge, instead of the film.

I recommend 30mm macro for Micro 4/3, 40mm macro for APS-C, or 60mm macro for full frame. Generally, a “near normal” focal length is desirable, so whatever that is for your Fujifilm camera would be appropriate.

[sunshine]

Thanks all, I have few more questions. I got an used copy stand so I only need a light source and film holders:

1. Which one would you recommended between the lobster holder OR Tonecarrier?
2. I saw mixed reviews about RALENO 19.5W LED Video Soft Light Panel. Is it comparable to Negative Supply’s light source?

[SSelvidge]

The last copy stand you will ever buy.

I dont own this nor do I work for them, but I highly considered this until I found a great enlarger to convert instead

[sunshine]

Well well well, what a coincidence. I got a used one near my house for just $50 today.