Skies are yellow instead of grey or blue

When posting about Image Conversion Issues, please include the following information:

  1. Which version of Negative Lab Pro are you using?

  2. If using DSLR scanning, please include: 1) camera make/model, 2) lens make/model, 3) light source make/model
    A6400, Sony 50mm 2.8 macro, Skier Sunray box v2

  3. If using film scanner, please include: 1) scanner make/model, 2) software used for scanning, 3) settings used for scanning

  4. Please add the conversion you are having difficulty with, along with a short description of what you are seeing wrong with it.
    I’m struggling with this particular roll which was a Kodak Gold 200 from the early 2000. I don’t know why skies looked yellow and a lot of yellow cast, i.e. on the umbrella by the town square

  5. It’s not required, but it’s very helpful if you can provide a link to the original RAW or TIFF negative before conversion. If you don’t want to share this file publicly, you can also email it to me at

Here are the jpeg and raw files.

Sorry to jump in but I have the same problem with many of my conversions from negatives which have been poorly stored for decades in the tropics.
Equipment is:
Nikon D850 with a 60mmf2.8G macro lens and a Nikon ES2.
Light source is a Manfrotto 6 LED light source; setup os both on tripods facing each other, full manual mode with base ISO set to 64. I am exposing as set and have not yet tried ETTR.

Workflow is photograph the negatives in RAW; put them through DXO PureRAW which outputs a DNG file; import into Lightroom 6 and WB using a blank from the roll then use NLP.

Has anyone been able to come up with a solution/ideas please? I’m currently having to convert to B+W.

I suspect the negatives have been damaged and/or poor quality developer/fixer all those years ago (20 to 40 years ago.)

Here is an example of what I am getting:

Had a look at your image, @Singaporeandy and got the impression that the negative is beyond enabling decent colours without more extensive post-processing.

In such cases, I often resort to B&W:

Alternatively, DxO PhotoLab 5 with its HSL and local adjustment tools can do something:

Results depend on how much time you spend…my choice would be to go B&W except for the one or two shots that I really want to keep in colour, accepting whatever “vintage” look they’ll take…

Hi Digitizer,

Thanks for having a look. You’ve confirmed what I have been wondering/suspecting for a while.

B+W it is, then!

Thanks again.



Processing a series of difficult (regarding conversion) images, I tend to go B&W because of its more expressive potential and sprinkle a few colour images into the set in order to preserve a touch of colour.

@ Singaporeandy
Intrigued by your negative and your question, I’ve tried some methods in Photoshop(vers. 23.0.2) . First with different adjustment layers after inversion and second also after inversion with the Colorise neural filter, once directly and once after a b/w adjustment. Here are the results. I can send the pds files if wanted.

Hi Herrison,
Thank you so much for having a go at sorting out my “little problem”!! I am unfortunately one of the minority who don’t use photoshop and have Serif Affinity Photo instead…
Your results are stunning and if it is not too much of a problem, i’d be grateful for the pds files and your workflow?? I can then try and adapt it to Affinity as I have so many photos in the same state of repair, unfortunately. One of the issues with poor storage in the tropics.

Thanks again.