When posting about Image Conversion Issues, please include the following information:
Which version of Negative Lab Pro are you using?
v2.2
If using DSLR scanning, please include: 1) camera make/model, 2) lens make/model, 3) light source make/model
A6400, Sony 50mm 2.8 macro, Skier Sunray box v2
If using film scanner, please include: 1) scanner make/model, 2) software used for scanning, 3) settings used for scanning
Please add the conversion you are having difficulty with, along with a short description of what you are seeing wrong with it.
I’m struggling with this particular roll which was a Kodak Gold 200 from the early 2000. I don’t know why skies looked yellow and a lot of yellow cast, i.e. on the umbrella by the town square
It’s not required, but it’s very helpful if you can provide a link to the original RAW or TIFF negative before conversion. If you don’t want to share this file publicly, you can also email it to me at nate@natephotographic.com
Hi,
Sorry to jump in but I have the same problem with many of my conversions from negatives which have been poorly stored for decades in the tropics.
Equipment is:
Nikon D850 with a 60mmf2.8G macro lens and a Nikon ES2.
Light source is a Manfrotto 6 LED light source; setup os both on tripods facing each other, full manual mode with base ISO set to 64. I am exposing as set and have not yet tried ETTR.
Workflow is photograph the negatives in RAW; put them through DXO PureRAW which outputs a DNG file; import into Lightroom 6 and WB using a blank from the roll then use NLP.
Has anyone been able to come up with a solution/ideas please? I’m currently having to convert to B+W.
I suspect the negatives have been damaged and/or poor quality developer/fixer all those years ago (20 to 40 years ago.)
Had a look at your image, @Singaporeandy and got the impression that the negative is beyond enabling decent colours without more extensive post-processing.
Results depend on how much time you spend…my choice would be to go B&W except for the one or two shots that I really want to keep in colour, accepting whatever “vintage” look they’ll take…
Processing a series of difficult (regarding conversion) images, I tend to go B&W because of its more expressive potential and sprinkle a few colour images into the set in order to preserve a touch of colour.
@ Singaporeandy
Intrigued by your negative and your question, I’ve tried some methods in Photoshop(vers. 23.0.2) . First with different adjustment layers after inversion and second also after inversion with the Colorise neural filter, once directly and once after a b/w adjustment. Here are the results. I can send the pds files if wanted.
Hi Herrison,
Thank you so much for having a go at sorting out my “little problem”!! I am unfortunately one of the minority who don’t use photoshop and have Serif Affinity Photo instead…
Your results are stunning and if it is not too much of a problem, i’d be grateful for the pds files and your workflow?? I can then try and adapt it to Affinity as I have so many photos in the same state of repair, unfortunately. One of the issues with poor storage in the tropics.
