Want my top-level camera scans of the best images to have less work for dusting, minimize scratches, etc. Special use case rather than an all-the-time thing. I did some searching with few definitive results specifically geared towards camera scans…
Is there a good starting point for wet-mounting for camera scanning purposes?
Should I just get the Epson Kit etc and use that with my lighting etc. Or does the glass create issues I am unaware of in a camera scan scenario vs flat or drum scan?
Here’s how I would recommend wet mounting your negatives for camera scanning:
There may be other equipment options than what is shown here for cheaper, but this is the basic process. The results are amazing. Good luck!
-Nate
Nice. I figured this was the answer but wanted to see if there were other solutions! Thanks!
Are you a member of the FB group “Digitizing film with a digital camera”. If so then this post could be useful:
It seems like the Epson wet mount kit has its limitations so it might be better to make your own setup, also it is important to mask out the rest of the panel just as it is with normal camera ‘scans’. I haven’t tried it myself yet but I’ve acquired a few cheap picture frames with glass and I intend to silicon the frame to the glass and cut drop in masks to suit different formats. In the post he describes using ‘low-iron’ glass, not sure what that is or where you get it but it must be better.
Edit: ‘Low iron glass’ is clearer, no green tinge, so glass for picture framing etc. Many people go for True Vue Museum Glass for camera scanning for instance but I don’t think that the mild anti-reflection treatment would actually be necessary for wet-mounting.
I am part of that group but have never gone that far back in time. Thanks! Reading now.
I only joined last year but there are some particularly rich seams of information from 2 or 3 years ago about all aspects of ‘camera scanning’.
I definitely would like to see more then! I will connect with you there.
Looks good – would you say there is a diffence from bare film repro? Beside scrathes of course.
Hard to beat the results of wet scanning…
It can be a pain to set up, but for the shots you want to be perfect, this is the way.
-Nate
Film can also be held flat with AN glass alone.
But having no apparent dust and scrathes would be great. It sure takes less time to wet mount them as retouching medium format and up by hand.
Does it have any effect on sharpnes and color rendition?
Not sure if you want these two items to be connected, but they are by laws of physics.
Anti-Newton glass is slightly frosted to prevent Newton’s rings and this frosting can show - depending on how the scanning kit resolves and where it is focused to.
The AN surface of the glass should point to the non-emulsion side of the film and should be closer to the backlight than to the camera for best AN and least diffusion effects.
Layering for best effect and least side-effect
lens
emulsion side of film
non-emulsion side of film
AN side of glass
non-AN side of glass
diffusor
backlight
Not sure how your post is related to the topic and prior discussion.
I have simply answered that one of the benefits of wet mounting (keeping film flat) can be achieved with glass too. AN glass is mentioned exaclty because of Newton rings
The following question was related to the amount of dust and scrathes reduced by wet mounting compared to other methods that may increase the number of surfaces and possible and influence of wet mounting on image characteristics.
I believe your mini tutorial about “layering” is well intended, albeit out of place in this discussion.
Sometimes, intentions are in a head, but not documented and therefore create room for interpretation. Separate paragraphs can do that too.
Hehe, yes I know. Somehow it happens a lot on this forum. I always found the tread organisation quite odd and illogical.
Best wishes!