Want my top-level camera scans of the best images to have less work for dusting, minimize scratches, etc. Special use case rather than an all-the-time thing. I did some searching with few definitive results specifically geared towards camera scans…
Is there a good starting point for wet-mounting for camera scanning purposes?
Should I just get the Epson Kit etc and use that with my lighting etc. Or does the glass create issues I am unaware of in a camera scan scenario vs flat or drum scan?
Here’s how I would recommend wet mounting your negatives for camera scanning:
There may be other equipment options than what is shown here for cheaper, but this is the basic process. The results are amazing. Good luck!
-Nate
Nice. I figured this was the answer but wanted to see if there were other solutions! Thanks!
Are you a member of the FB group “Digitizing film with a digital camera”. If so then this post could be useful:
It seems like the Epson wet mount kit has its limitations so it might be better to make your own setup, also it is important to mask out the rest of the panel just as it is with normal camera ‘scans’. I haven’t tried it myself yet but I’ve acquired a few cheap picture frames with glass and I intend to silicon the frame to the glass and cut drop in masks to suit different formats. In the post he describes using ‘low-iron’ glass, not sure what that is or where you get it but it must be better.
Edit: ‘Low iron glass’ is clearer, no green tinge, so glass for picture framing etc. Many people go for True Vue Museum Glass for camera scanning for instance but I don’t think that the mild anti-reflection treatment would actually be necessary for wet-mounting.
I am part of that group but have never gone that far back in time. Thanks! Reading now.
I only joined last year but there are some particularly rich seams of information from 2 or 3 years ago about all aspects of ‘camera scanning’.
I definitely would like to see more then! I will connect with you there.
Looks good – would you say there is a diffence from bare film repro? Beside scrathes of course.
Hard to beat the results of wet scanning…
It can be a pain to set up, but for the shots you want to be perfect, this is the way.
-Nate
Film can also be held flat with AN glass alone.
But having no apparent dust and scrathes would be great. It sure takes less time to wet mount them as retouching medium format and up by hand.
Does it have any effect on sharpnes and color rendition?
Not sure if you want these two items to be connected, but they are by laws of physics.
Anti-Newton glass is slightly frosted to prevent Newton’s rings and this frosting can show - depending on how the scanning kit resolves and where it is focused to.
The AN surface of the glass should point to the non-emulsion side of the film and should be closer to the backlight than to the camera for best AN and least diffusion effects.
Layering for best effect and least side-effect
lens
emulsion side of film
non-emulsion side of film
AN side of glass
non-AN side of glass
diffusor
backlight
Not sure how your post is related to the topic and prior discussion.
I have simply answered that one of the benefits of wet mounting (keeping film flat) can be achieved with glass too. AN glass is mentioned exaclty because of Newton rings
The following question was related to the amount of dust and scrathes reduced by wet mounting compared to other methods that may increase the number of surfaces and possible and influence of wet mounting on image characteristics.
I believe your mini tutorial about “layering” is well intended, albeit out of place in this discussion.
Sometimes, intentions are in a head, but not documented and therefore create room for interpretation. Separate paragraphs can do that too.
Hehe, yes I know. Somehow it happens a lot on this forum. I always found the tread organisation quite odd and illogical.
Best wishes!
Yes I agree.
I have just made a 35mm neg & tranny copy stand (horizontal set up) with the holder using a Canon R5 on a NiSi rail. My devise has micro adjustment and centering controls (left right and up and down) plus absolute flatness of film to camera @90 degrees. Using low iron non reflective glass strips (cut to 35mm and at least 6 frames) to hold the film in, both front & back against light source aperature. Mounted dry I get super focus on the emulsion, no interference issues and great flatness, the camera does not see the glass nor does it affect the colour, no green in the glass. With Canon RF100 Macro lens I can shoot as low 1/60 sec @ F5-7 with ISO 100, zoomed to the very edge of the film frame.
Wet set up is not required, it is so easy to slide my border less glass plates along (then lock with foam lock plates in the device hood) to get each frame, the film does not slip. Focusing on sections of the frame is easier to do as well. A good dust free environment is a must.
I have not found any downsides to this way of copying, Neg Lab Pro brings the film to life extremely well in Lr and then using ON1 for further editing works well.
Hi @Martin , can you post a photo of your setup?
As a new user, you can only add one attachment (as far as I remember) but you can always post a link to a share that holds that photo…or as many as you like.
Use wetransfer.com, dropbox, google etc. and don’t forget to make the image file “public”.
Your system sounds very interesting so pictures would be very welcome. You might also be the perfect person to answer the questions in this post regarding possible focus shift issues with the R5 and the RF 100mm Macro:
I would say the solve on focus shift on any lens is to take it out of the equation entirely. Use a macro rail to focus. I use 2 and soon 3 different lenses. The macro rail keeps my reproduction ratios exactly the same from shot to shot.
Steps:
Now… any new ideas or kit for wet mounts aside from the epson kit?! Me, the OP, still wants to know hahaha!
I’m sure there is a simple solution but as described it seems you can only focus wide open with Canon AF lenses but unlike its EF predecessor this RF lens suffers from focus shift. There must be more to it that I don’t understand because that seems crazy for an expensive lens. I suppose on manual you can use the ‘stop down’ button and do as you say and I would certainly use a macro rail myself, but a lot of people would prefer to use AF if they can.
Hi Digitizer,
I am new to this forum and NegLabPro. I looked around at professional equipment for neg
capture and in Australia USD to AUD makes it very costly for an enthusiast level operator.
Worst of all unless you are using a Flextight Drum scanner all (35mm or tranny) film holders do not fully flatten the film. Med format negs can be wet in on Epson scanners adaptor etc., but I wanted to use RAW or DNG capture, Epson is still soft on detail and my Flextight does not have RAW or
DNG capability
My aim was to make it easier and also accurate to digitise my 35mm film collection with a digital
full frame camera - I have been surprised at the level of sharpness and the detail capture
this delivers. Editing - developing in RAW or DNG software is just so good these days
So I built my “weird looking” prototype gadget which will handle film strips, film transparencies
and with an adapter replace the 35mm head & rail with its diffuser built in, change to 120 or other medium format negs to suit a larger aperture with its bigger diffuser.
However it seems highly effective made from wood and plumbing bits, custom built device
that allows camera mount with a lens felt edged brace that allows side and vertical adjustment, the
NiSi droops the lens too much it needs the support. This allows a very good way to focus
right into the neg image area (hold position) accurately for repeat or additional frames.
to do a quarter frame shoot I just insert a replacement spacer that moves the glass and neg
up and down - then do the same for the other half and then stitch - I have only tested this
once so far.
I do admit not everyone would want to go this far, it looks clunky but it works well.
Up Loading has failed here in this reply even though the 2 pics are small, I shall have an explore on wetransfer.com as in joining and making pics available.
I usually use Hightail to FTP to send an email link invitation to collect. Let me know if there is another way to deliver.
Thanks for your interest - sorry no picture yet.