Kodak colour plus shooted on a basic point and shoot
Converted as Digital camera - none - presaturation 2 low
This settings are the best Ive found trying, but still some pictures are off and anyway are too warm. But is either too warm or the skies with stronge cyan casts and everything too contrasty, so I am a bit lost.
for example pics 29 30 and 31 at the beggining war extremely off but the negatives doesnt look as diferents on expositions as the positives. The green on 30 is different (under exposed and a bit blue cast) but 29 is actually a bit underxeposed on camera
Suggestions? I’ve synced the settings to all the pictures. But for examples on this roll and other with similar problems, the pictures with flash fired ones are actually good on colours, so why on day light doesnt work?
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Which version of Negative Lab Pro are you using?
EOS R + canon ef macro 100mm 2.8 + valoi easy35
Bad colour consistency and accuracy
5.Full roll here
kodak colour plus sky
It will always require editing to look consistent. It is the very nature of film and the interpretations by either scanner software, NLP, Nortisu operator etc…
You can try the roll analysis feature which should help you and its designed for this scenario.
But yes, it is a but thing with film conversion, getting consistent colors on same scene.
I did use the roll analysis. I understand that your kodaks shoots, scanned with your camera from diferent brand, on a diferent light conditions on the day and so on, are different from my pictures. But what scapes my understandment is same roll, same light, same scene, same camera, scanned and processed in a similar way, some pictures randomly looks different.
And from what I started (way more wild) and this point, I understand is a software thing that I am missing or some short of crazyness interpretating the pictures.
Sorry, what i mean is every algorithm (NLP, Noritsu, Flextight etc) will also be different per image.
Film is open to interpretation as far as i understand, there is no 100% foolproof way to get a perfect algorithm to invert negatives to end up with digital like reproduction where each shot looks the same with one click. If you have the same lighting and exact same subject and frame it would be repeatable…
Now you can get them to be the same look, but you will have to tweak each image after the initial conversion.
Well, at some level we are talking about same chemical support, scanned and interpreted by the same digital sensor and software, so maybe a 5% variation is ok, but a 30% is not. Also, I really doubt a film stock with such an old design would make so cyan skies.
Something is clearly very off.