I’m currently using my Sony A7R3 and Sony 90mm to digitise my negs, but I’m thinking of selling this set up as I never actually shoot with it anymore. This would leave me with my Phase One IQ160 and 120mm Macro lens to digitise negatives with.
Is anyone else here digitising with Phase One gear?
What’s the best workflow? Tether into Capture One and import the raw IIQ files into Lightroom? Or Tether into Capture One, export as TIF files and import the TIFs into Lightroom?
Phase One gear is not exactly what I’d call everyone’s and doubt that you’ll find a lot of experience in this special field here, but I’ll be happy to be proven wrong.
Given the circumstances, I’d propose that you try both ways and see what works best in your situation - and let us know what you found. Other than that, you’ll find a lot of resources about setup and lighting in the forum, the guide and other info in the web like here and here etc.
IIQ files are not supported by Adobe, or any other Raw converter that I am aware of.
IIQ files can only be processed through Capture One Pro. For Myself, working with a Phase One IXH and IXG I have to export a 16Bit calibrated Tiff into Lightroom to then further process with NL.P
If you are interested this is how is how I calibrate my light source. This would work with any lightbox, such as DT Photon, or even Negative Supply: https://www.negative.supply/
Using Capture One Pro. The most import thing is to change your colour readouts from RGB to Lab colour (LAB). This will allow you to measure exposure in luminance, which is a exact measure of the brightness of your light box.
Here is the method:
I usually set my camera to 50 iso @ F8. Adjust your shutter speed and make some captures of your light source until your LAB value is between 55 and 65. Make sure your light source fills the entirety of your capture window.
Once at LAB value 55 to 65 create a LCC from your capture. This will use C1’s LCC tool to even out your light source and compensate for any uneven lighting.
Next, adjust your shutter speed and make additional captures, until you get a LAB value that is as close as possible to100. I usually get it to around 98 or 99. Remember any value over 100 is past pure white, and if you add any additional exposure in your camera the LAB value will still read 100 regardless.
Now set your white balance using the WB tool. This will remove any colour cast from your light source. This will also make a small change to your LAB value, pushing it closer to 100 5. Adjust your final exposure using C1’s exposure tool. Micro adjust to get your LAB value closest to 100. I usually like to sit around 99.3
This method should work in Lightroom as well
I would add to this to make sure your to set your profile to “generic” and your curve to “linear response” before exporting the Tiff to process via Lightroom / Negative Lab Pro.