Camera Settings

Prior to digitizing w/ my X-H1 what should my camera picture settings be set to? Is it fair for me to assume that the picture settings should be as Neutral as possible, e.g., zero out, as it were, all optional settings as to color rendition, sharpness, etc, etc.?

I just scanned a roll of Fuji 400H Pro and the files after converting via NLP 2.1 looked absolutely atrocious. I took at look at what i had stored as my “go to” settings for shooting B&W and, lo and stupidly on my part behold, I had an ACROS setup as the profile.

Thankfully, your program is non-destructive. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:


It won’t matter if you’re shooting raw, which you should be. Fuji’s film simulations like ACROS, Velvia, etc do not modify the data in raw files. Neither do your camera’s shadows/highlights/sharpening/etc settings or white balance.

And after LR import, even if you have a custom Fuji-esque Lightroom profile set for your X-H1 files, NLP will switch to its own proper profile when it converts an image.

The only camera picture settings that could screw up your raw capture are DR200 or DR400. Don’t use those. Keep your camera on DR100 and at base ISO (200 for your X-H1).

If you’re getting bad results, make sure you use LR’s white balance sampler on the image’s unexposed film border before processing in NLP. Also make sure you crop away as much of the film border as you can and set NLP to ignore an appropriate percentage of the image’s border (default is 5%… adjust accordingly).

If you’re still getting bad results, maybe post a before & after and a screenshot or two of the relevant settings. Hope that helps!

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Make sure you are shooting RAW (not JPEG).

If you are already shooting RAW, make sure that you have everything installed correctly, and that you are seeing the camera profile correctly change to “Negative Lab v2.0” after using Negative Lab Pro on the image.

Also make sure that you are following the instructions for DSLR scanning to white balance from the film border prior to conversion.

If all that is being followed, you may just need to change the conversion settings to get a look you like. I usually like to start out with “linear+ deep” for the tone profile, and “autocolor - warming” for the starting color balance.


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Lousy roll was all jpegs, so that answers one question. :slight_smile: :slight_smile: However, I just scanned a roll of RAF’s, imported into LR Classic, and each one was changed to a DNG. Little did I know that I could simply choose COPY from the import options and avoid DNG, and import RAF directly. Thank you, Kim, very much


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Roger that, Nate, I was using DNG :frowning: or JPGs :frowning: :frowning: I now am using RAF. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:
And I’ll re-digitize the last roll making certain that I use the correct camera settings as well. This is great fun :slight_smile:


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What about the camera’s White Balance setting? Is white balance also a “JPEG, only” setting?

Should I leave my camera set to Automatic White Balance?

Or, should I set my camera WB to a specific Kelvin temperature, based on the color temp of my light source?

Is there any advantage to creating a custom camera white balance setting based on my backlight source?

Or does NLP just ignore any WB info that may be written into the RAW file by the camera, so none of the above matters?

As long as you are capturing RAW, the white-balance setting at time of capture doesn’t really matter, since you’ll be white-balancing off film border once you open up the image in Lightroom.

Does that make sense?


Last roll I scanned via NS system w/ my fuji X-H1 and fuji 80mm/2.8 Macro had no white borders at all. Each border has a distinctly muted pink cast to it. Hence, no way for me to use the dropper for WB. All files were RAF. I"m not sure what to do.


Yep, that’s the part you want to sample with the dropper for WB.