When I first got this setup I only scanned 35mm film, and the results have been fantastic when converted with NLP.
Although the 120 carrier is a different story. When inverted, the photos have this strange glow along the top and bottom edges. Of course this must mean they are darker in the un-inverted scan.
I thought maybe this was some flat field correction thing due to vignetting but this issue is non existent on 35mm scans. Also the bleed is clearly just along the top/bottom edges and are not circular in nature.
I am using the setup in a 100% pitch black room. I’ve tried with and without the included scanning hood incase it was a stray light issue, but no changes there.
I just can’t seem to figure what could be causing this. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks, at 39 secs or thereabouts it shows it raised above a light panel, is that the type or size of panel that you are using? Is your holder a similar height above the panel?
I suppose where I’m coming from is that these pale edges on inverted negatives seem often to be caused by non-image forming light casting a shadow from the edges of the holder on to the scan. You could also perhaps scan a blank unexposed piece of colour negative film if you have one, and perhaps post it here, or post what you already have.
OK, to fit my theory I was hoping that your light source was going to turn out to be bigger, is it much smaller? Personally in the video I think there is far too much Non Image Forming Light / NIFL getting out to do mischief. Is there scope to mask your panel to a degree without impinging on the image?
Yeah the light source is a lot smaller than the one they have in the video. Although the kit does clearly claim it’s meant for scanning up to 6x9 negatives with that light.
The kit I got does mask off everything so there is no light leakage.
EDIT: here is a link to the exact light source that comes in the kit.
My only theory is that the light source is too small to properly illuminate the edges properly.
Although that seems stupid to me that they would package it inside this $2500 kit if it’s not even properly suited for 120 film. So I’d like to give them the benefit of the doubt and assume it’s something I’m doing wrong.
So “scanning area - 3.75 x 2.5”, so 95mm x 63mm, that’s not a great deal wider than the 56mm width of the image as you say. Is there any scope to raise the panel and see if that makes a difference?
If you haven’t done it already I’d suggest photographing the panel on its own, outside of the carrier, just to make sure that the light is even. People have reported issues with faulty NS panels, though I’m sure they have with all panels, but worth checking.
I have a Cinestil CS-Lite which is excellent, and the surface area is larger than yours at 194 x 94 mm. However right at the very edge, maybe 5mm from the edge, it does get uneven but it’s not a problem because of the size, even for 5"x4" if you stitch, which I do. This shows a compressed/exaggerated idea of the evenness.
I made these notes for myself when I first bought it, can’t remember if I posted them anywhere:
The CS-Lite is 175mm x 120mm and the illuminated area is 149mm x 94mm, so just a bit too narrow to think of doing uncropped 5"x4". The surface of the lit area has a pure white matt frosted appearance. It’s rated as >95 CRI (Colour Rendering Index) which really should be fine, 99 CRI panels are super expensive. There is a 1/4" tripod thread at the centre of one of the long sides (useful perhaps for mounting on a table tripod, or even for using as a Macro light source). The captive USB lead is just under 2m long and the control switch is about 45 cms from the body on that lead. It needs a 1.6 Amp 5V USB ‘A’ power source for full brightness. Standard Iphone power plugs are 1A (5W) but Ipad power plugs like the A1357 or A1401 are 2 Amp (10W) and easily available for less that £10, I’m using an A1357. They say that 5W power plug means it will still work fine but it will be half as bright though I haven’t tested this. Someone who has used it a lot says it doesn’t get hot if just left on, this is not true of some of the other panels available though they may be brighter still.
When I bought mine it came with single enhancer sheet and I did use it though actually now I think it’s back in the box somewhere. I have found that the 10W Iphone power plug does get noticeably warm if the light is left on, the panel itself does not get warm at all, but in any case now I run it off a Juice power bank which is very convenient for me. There is quite a lot of information here and elsewhere about it, generally positive I think. I particularly like the simple form factor with no controls on the unit itself, just the control switch on the cord as described above. I’ve built mine inside a ‘scanning box’ so the external control was important. Of course you’ll need to make sure that the dimensions are a good fit with your NS kit.
I also have the NS Light Source Mini 97 CRI. I haven’t tried it with 120 film yet but I will do a test now to see if it has the same problem. Might have to get a Cinestill CS-LITE as well?
